A Complete Guide to Legal, Illegal & Immoral Kokoda Tour Operators

The PNG Kokoda Track Authority (KTA) has lost control of the licensing system for Kokoda tour operators and now issues trek permits to anybody who turns up with a cheque or cash without conducting any due-diligence on their legal status.

As a result only five of the 58 tour operators selling treks comply with the provsions of the PNG Investment Promotion Authority (IPA) Act – the remaining 53 operate illegally.

This could have major consequences for those who book with illegal tour operators in the case of emergency as it could invalidate any form of Public Liability or Travel insurance.

Those who research the Kokoda campaign will be aware that many our soldiers were reported to have feared the jungle more than they feared their Japanese enemy – this is a big call given they were outgunned and outnumbered by up to 10:1 in some of the early battles.

They should also be aware that the same jungle hasn’t changed over the 80 years since the end of the war!

Our jungle training instructors at Canungra used to dwell on the message that the jungle can be your best friend or your worst enemy – and so they tested us to the limit with their knowledge before sending us off to Vietnam.

The same applies to those contemplating a trek across the Kokoda Trail today.

One must prepare for the worst but hope for the best.

Preparing for the worst relates to acquiring knowledge and minimising risk because there are no second chances on the rare occasions that emergencies arise.

The first essential is to conduct a compliance check and a cost-benefit analysis on the Kokoda tour operator who will be responsible for your safety and wellbeing in PNG which has the well-earned reputation as ‘a land of the unexpected’.

PNG has been classified as the most corrupt country in APEC as good governance in most government departments is almost non-existent.

The old Latin proverb ‘Caveat Emptor’ or ‘Let the buyer beware’ therefore applies more in PNG than any other nation in Asia and the Pacific.

Case Study

On 17 April 2009 I had remained behind at Ofi Creek to arrange for the helicopter evacuation of one of our trekker.

Around 9.00 am the trekker was evacuated and I commenced my climb up the Maguli Range in pursuit of my trek group I had sent ahead. I pushed forward through Nauro village towards our next campsite at Agulogo Creek. Late in the afternoon a guide from a local PNG trek group caught up with me and handed me a note which advised that a woman in their trek group back at Ofi Creek needed urgent assistance. He asked if I could use our satphone to call his the owner of the trek group in Port Moresby to get help.

He was not able to tell me what medical symptons she was suffering from or her exact location which meant that it would not be possible to arrange for a helicopter as they need comms and specific locations.

I called the number he gave me but there was no answer. This didn’t surprise me as I knew of the company and knew they did not have any trained medical personnel or any emergency equipment.

I called our logisitics provider at Sogeri to alert him of the potential emergency but it was a futile call due to the lack of information I could provide.

I discussed the situation with my trekkers when I arrived in camp but there was nothing we could do – if I returned to Ofi Creek it would then take me three days to catch my group again. I therefore made the decision to continue to lead my group.

We later heard that a young mother had died from a reported asthma attack about 20 minutes up from Ofi Creek that night.

I felt sad about it because I carry an epi-pen in my medical kit and perhaps it might have helped – but I also felt angry because the Kokoda Track Authority continues to issue trek permits to tour operators who cut corners to keep their costs down.

Her family later placed a small plaque at the site where she died – it acted as a reminder to me of the risks involved in trekking Kokoda every time I trekked passed it over the next 13years.

A thorough due diligence check of the 53 illegal Kokoda tour operators will reveal that most are just registered as ‘Business Names’ and therefore do not have valid Public Liabilitry Insurance policies.

The best form of insurance is to therefore trek with an experienced tour company whose leaders are trained in remote area First Aid; who are equipped with satphones, VHF radios, medical kits, and defibrillators; who have a valid Public Liability insurance policy; and who fully comply with the relevant legal requirements for doing business in PNG.

Public Liability Insurance is an essential component of any legitimate company – the purpose is to provide lifetime cover to anybody unfortunate enough to suffer a permanent disability.

It’s also expensive!

Unfortunately, the KTA has been corrupted and has lost control of their own Kokoda tour operator licensing system – ‘Caveat Emptor‘ therefore applies.