Five Australians have now died on the Kokoda Trail in recent years. Many more have been evacuated because they were not physically capable of completing the arduous and hazardous trek across the Owen Stanley Ranges in Papua New Guinea.
We don’t know the cause of death.
We don’t even know how many have been evacuated, or why, because nobody keeps any records!
Perhaps it is time to question the effectiveness of the Kokoda Track Authority which is supposed to be the management agency for the Kokoda Trail. Australians have been in-situ for more than two years under a Joint Australian-PNG Agreement developed to protect the Kokoda Trail from mining and logging claims.
Since Australia signed the Joint Agreement in April last year there has been a veritable congo-line of consultants and bureaucrats visiting villages, some by foot and some by helicopter, to find out what the problems are and how they can be fixed. After two years and a couple of million dollars we are having about as much success as we are with our own indigenous communities.
‘Feel-good’ projects are the order of the day. We currently have ‘volunteer teams’ digging steps along the trail – unbelievable but true!
We are planning to build bridges across creeks for local people who have been building bridges for thousands of years – unbelievable but true!
We have developed an ineffectual and unenforceable ‘Code of Conduct’ for Trek Operators that looks great on paper – but that’s all! The list goes on.
Since the time Australia has had a presence in PNG under the Joint-Agreement there has not been a single survey to find out why trekkers go to Kokoda or to see how they would like it developed.
There has not been a single workshop in villages along the trail to see what local landowners and clan leaders like and dislike about the increasing numbers of trekkers passing through their villages – and what improvements they would like to see happen.
There is not a single management protocol yet in place for trekking Kokoda. For example, an unfit, overweight smoker with a serious heart and lung condition could apply for a trek permit today and it would be granted – as long as he paid his $100 trek fee. He would not be required to provide a medical clearance, a trek itinerary or even engage a local guide. Unbelievable but true!
Any person can be a trek operator. There is no need for them to have any experience in expedition leadership, any qualifications in emergency First Aid, or to carry any medical or communications equipment. Unbelievable but true!
Any attempt to develop community enterprises along the Kokoda Trail should be done in partnership with the PNG Department of Community Development. Nobody has yet consulted with the Minister, Dame Carol Kidu MP, or her department to discuss the issue and opportunities for local community development. Unbelievable but true!
The approach thus far seems to be based on the fact that Australian bureaucrats and consultants know best!
After the latest death on the trail this approach needs to be challenged and those who have been assigned to the Kokoda Track Authority should be charged with the responsibility for developing proper management systems for Kokoda Trail operations.
If trek operators were aware of the causes of recent deaths and evacuations along the Trail, they could develop protocols and procedures to minimise the risk of it happening again. They are currently unable to do this because they have never received any information.
The Australian Government should now instruct its representatives on the Kokoda Track Authority to withdraw from all ‘feel-good’ projects along the Kokoda Trail and indefinitely postpone any further ‘studies’ by consultants.
They should then focus on the immediate development of a proper management plan for Kokoda Trail operations and commit to a Master Memorial Plan to honour the military history of the Kokoda campaign.
Putting the recent death aside for the moment. The cause is unknown and apportioning blame or reason is most unwise and not helpful especially to the man’s family and friends. It is sad moment when someone dies while particpating in an experience of a lifetime.
I acknowledge and support Charlie’s frustration. Australian governments have only one solution to problems – particlularly problems they have absolutely no knowledge of, to appoint a committee and pass the problem to the public servants (these people are not bureaucrats, they are employed to serve the public. The word bureaucrat lets them take their eyes off their reason for employment.) who then give the problem a life of its own. Site visits, meetings, studies, reports, strategies, plans, budgets and the list is only contained by a public servant’s imagination.
Charlie is right. Talk to trekkers. Talk to the locals. Talk to the operators.
But who does the talking? PNG officials and those in the trekking industry. If these people cannot solve the issue then it probably will never be solved. But just remember the public servants do not give a damn either way if the problem is solved or not. It’s not their problem it’s their livelihood.
Ross
Thank you Ross.
Your advice for the Kokoda Management Authority to ‘talk to trekkers – talk to locals – talk to the operators’ is spot on.
The trekker is the paying customer. If they stop going to Kokoda because of the ongoing negative publicity about deaths and evacuations from the trail – or from reports of large clusters of trek groups at campsites because of the lack of a trek booking system, then the management problem will solve itself because there will be very little to manage. A survey to determine their reasons for trekking Kokoda, their prior expectations and their subsequent feedback is fundamental and should have been the first priority for the Australians who are working in PNG under the Joint Agreement. I am not aware of any such survey being conducted.
The next most important group of people are the villagers along the trail – particularly the landowners and clan leaders. The PNG Department of Community Services should be assisted to conduct workshops with professional facilitators experienced in Melanesian culture to seek their views and understand their needs. I am not aware of any such workshops being conducted.
Then next priority should be the implementation of a basic management system that includes a mandatory medical clearance from people who apply for a Trek Permit from the Kokoda Track Authority. They should also have to provide a trek itinerary so the authority can manage likely chokepoints at campsites during peak trekking periods. There are many other issues such as trek operator and campsite accreditation but the requirement for medical clearance and the submission of a trek itinerary should be mandatory and it should be in place NOW!
It is sad news indeed every time a person dies on the Track, however it should not take a death for us to stop and look at what is happening with management of the track.
Whether we like it or not, to progress a management plan, from the threads that exist now to a functional, enforceable, long term strategy for the track, its residents, users and operators, requires some kind of ‘bureaucratic’ process.
From first hand experience as a ‘public servant’ in similar environments in the pacific, I can only suggest the results are directly related to the motivation of the individual(s) in charge and the quality of their staff. Get the right people, with the right knowledge and the right motivation (I fear any public servant who is more concerned about perpetuating their livelihood than the value of their work) in to do the work. People who will work with as much sensibility as passion.
If you want to lobby for change, lobby with as much sensibility as passion.
Pete
Well Charlie I can understand your frustration with bureaucrats and politicians. I some times wonder if they should have a pre-requisite of having done some form of military training before taking up office, at least they would have had a taste of logistics and leadership. I did the track 3 years ago at the age of 57 and weighing 120kg. My doctor signed my medical clearance because he knew my capability. I can assure you that he would not have signed if in his medical opinion I would’nt have made it. I to come from Townsville and since completing the track have talked with many a person from all over OZ. I asked if they stopped and took in the significant sites in which the Australians stood their ground. Needless to say you knew which ones didn’t do this track with Charlie’s Adventure Kokoda.
The August 07 trip was lead by gentle little giant John Nalder as well as having the WA wheat board group of 12 with our group as well made it one of the biggest. Yet the whole trip ran with military precision. Every day on the track we travelled at a safe pace, medical evacuation procedures were in place, the night stops were prepared in advance. No-one passed the lead scout and all tail enders were accompanied by the rear scout, therefore everyone was accounted for at all times and their condition healthwise was monitored and any problems dealt with before moving on.
I feel that before anyone can take out a group of trekkers they should have been carefully vetted to see that they have in place all the necessary solutions to any problems that may arise. Persons taking the track should and must have health certificates from their doctors to say that they are in a fit condition to make the trip safely.
Allan (Fred) Read.
Its a very difficult issue Charlie. Walking the Track has become such an iconic aspiration for Australians, and others, largely because of the publicity generated by companies like yours. You don’t want too many rules and regulations denying people the adventure and personal experience of a lifetime, and its healthy to stretch ones personal envelope – but you don’t want to tear it. A similar situation to Ayers Rock on which many have died.
Hoever I agree the trek operator accreditation regime and the medical clearance process should be more consistent and rigorous. It will never be foolproof though – fit people have heart attacks and strokes and notionally unfit people can do amazing things.
I also agree that we should not be building steps etc on the Track to make it easier to traverse. If you can’t handle the conditions you shouldnt be on it. There might be a case for some of this work if its for say erosion prevention or other environmental reasons, given the numbers walking the Track.
Charlie,
One of the reasons I chose your company to do this walk was because you ensure that all walkers are made aware of the physical and mental requirements to do this walk. If people think they can walk the Kokoda without putting in some very good training and getting themselves fit they are kidding themselves.
I believe that the medical that your company demands of all their walkers should be the minimum requirement of all walkers on the track.
Since committing to do the walk in April next year I have started walking a minimum of 15kms each weekend with a minimum of 17kg pack. The distance each weekend will increase as the start date draws near. This may sound extreme to some walkers, however, as you point out on your web site it is better to be fit and enjoy the walk than to last just 40mins as is the case with some walkers. The training is paying dividends with a weight lost of 13kgs so far and my stamina increasing noticeably.
I can not believe that there are not legal requirements and ramification for failing to have the minimum safety equipment (Sat phone etc).
When is the government of both Australia and PNG going to enforce standards that not only benefit the walkers, but more importantly the local villages who should be the main concern?
With my fellow trekkers on AK0902 (April 2009), and new friends we all had the same desire to “Walk in the foot steps of our Heroes”, we all knew it was going to be hard both physically and mentally. The Kokoda trek (trail) is at it is. For most of us every day is a challenge – either travelling the world or just doing day to day tasks. This challenge is no different if you are aware and well prepared for it. With your Company it was run professionally and our guides were full of knowledge and safety was the utmost priority. It was my decision alone to fulfill a life dream. I was not as fit as the rest but I knew my limits and I finished with my team. To Charlie and his team I thank you.
Whenever I hear of someone dying while walking the trail, I wonder if they had a pre-existing medical condition, perhaps one they didn’t even know they had. While obviously this information wouldn’t be public knowledge, I think a record of cause of death would be really useful information. Perhaps it is just that these people are not prepared, but there’s also the possibility of pre-existing heart conditions that have never been detected, as their bodies have never been stressed enough to show symptoms. Perhpas trekkers need to be tested for this sort of thing before embarking on the trail.
Another thing I have always thought, both before and after conquering the trail, is that there should be a much stricter process to assess trekkers fitness before allowing them sign up. I realise this is a tricky one, but a serious fitness test would ensure that the trekkers would actually have the capability to complete the trail. While having someone who is not physically prepared on the trail is a danger to themselves, it significantly impacts on the other trekkers, especially those who have put in the hard yards to ensure they are fit enough.
One more thing – I agree with Charlie – leave the bloody track alone! I understand progress – it seems nothing in this world can be left alone 5 minutes without someone trying to upgrade it. The Kokoda Trail is not the place for upgrades – if we try and do to much, build too many bridges and roads, steps and shelters, then it will no longer be the trail it was. It’s an historic site – it should be appreciated and endured for what it is. Just my thoughts………
Charlie,
Before attempting the trail I feel all prospective walkers should be made aware of its wartime historical significance for all Australians.I believe those who see how fast they can cover the distance or those who come away without any appreciation of what happened at the various sites during the war are missing the real reason that walking the Kokoda Trail should mean to all Australians.
I was 68 when I walked with my son a couple of years ago and I can honestly say it was a shared experience both of us will always treasure. At an early morning memorial service at Ishurava there was not a dry eye amongst all of our group thanks to you Charlie.
It seems to me those “volunteer teams” building steps, bridges etc. don’t fully understand that one of the reasons people walk the track is to try and experience to some small degree one of the hardships our soldiers had to overcome during the war. These days we live in a society where everything is made too easy and people are forgetting and not experiencing the hardships our forebears had to endure.
Obviously trek operators should be licenced and subject to certain conditions such as — First Aid -Historical Knowledge –Clients Medical Health — etc.
The Kokoda Track Authority needs real authority and Canberra should be made aware of this particularly by previous trail walkers!
Keep plugging Charlie.
I did the Kokoda Track with Adventure Kokoda (Charlie Lynn), a very professional outfit in July 2007 at the age of 61. I was required (by Adventure Kokoda) to complete a prior medical with my local GP who sent me off for additional tests and some medication for slightly elevated blood pressure before he attested to the fact that I was fit enough to undertake the rigour of Kokoda. I also put in many hard yards in training around the Royal National Park and still found it a challenging experience and difficult to train or prepare for the degree of difficulty the Bloody Track presents. Trek Operators should be licensed, there should be a strictly enforced code of conduct and medicals obligatory for those in risk categories. The egos and challenges of individual trekkers and some unscrupolous Operators need to be balanced with a proper risk management strategy to minimise such disasterous adverse events through undiagnosed medical conditions. Also I am unconvinced we have got it right in supporting the Track – the programs and waste that has occurred through the medalling of successive Governments should stop and we should embark on a program which takes account of ecological and environmental needs whilst maintaining the heritage, military significance and local presence on the Track. We should provide education and civil support to those whose forebares helped our people in our campaigns to defend Australia.
Charlie,
It has been said that fit for purpose is a relevant anology for many arduoous tasks. This is so that walking the Kokoda Trail requires a level of physical fitness but also a mental toughness. Also trekers require an understanding of the importance, signifance and indeed the history of the trail. Like heritage listing a house you can only improve/renovate in certain ways and certainly the trail’s heritage requires preserving, hence knowledge of the dangers attribituded to the reality of the situation are required. Mismanagement, or lack of, may be an area of grave concern. Until this is addressed then we may see more problems and ultimately deaths. It is sad that such an important part of history can be trated as a personal accomplishment with out thought of ramifications. It needs Management structures put into place and audited not just given lip service.
My husband and I walked the “bloody track” in April 2007 with Adventure Kokoda, and found the company to be extremely professional and experienced in their approach to all health and fitness requirements needed to attempt such an achievement. WE were required to have a full medical with our local GP, an exercise stress test in order to assess our fitness to endure the track. We had already begun an arduous fitness regime in preparedness. Yes, it was hard work but well worth the time and effort not only to be able to get up each morning in readiness for another slog but also to appreciate the difficulties and hardships our diggers went through in order that we have such an amazing country today. All who walk the track should be well aware of the sacrificies our diggers made for us and the significance of the Kokoda. And yes each time we hear about a death on the track it is not unfortunate but the scars it leaves on families and friends must be unbearable. However, those who are intending to walk must be made aware of the upcoming challenges and it must be stressed upon them who important fitness and health is. This must come from a proper management system being put in place to monitor the unscrupolous behaviours of some shonky operators. And we agree wholeheartedly with Charlie no amount of “feel good schemes” of digging steps, building bridges etc. will help this situation. Bureaucrats and the like need to get down and dirty and get to the grass routs and talk to trekkers, villages and those operators like Charlie who have the track, villages and trekkers best interests at heart. The track needs to be as is so trekkers can at least have a slight understanding of the hardships or diggers went through. All Government departments and ministers need to take heed, take their heads out of the sand and for once just “listen” to some who actually know what they are talking about. Oh and for the record we completed our trek and felt a feeling of achievement second to none and an emotion I dont think has been repeated. Thank you Charlie.
Charlie, I walked the track earlier this year. I was 55 years old and 132 kg before I started training for the trek and hit the ground at Kokoda at 110kg in April. The shedding of the 22 kg was a big part of getting ready as was the physical training to make sure the legs, heart and lungs would all perform and get me through and then making sure ‘the head’ was right was also crucial for success. I was fortunate to have mates who had ‘been there, done that’ who helped me get ready for the ‘task’ that is Kokoda. If I had not been prepared in mind, body and soul and then have trek leaders like Chad Sherrin and Bernie Rowell, chances are people might have been writing about me dying up there or being flown out. The knowledge that anyone can be a trek leader in that place is farcical and tantamount to stupidity by those in authority who chose not to act and place ‘minimum standards’ (at least) on tour companies and just let it happen. Surely common sense must prevail. Why the hell do the arse shinners want to play games and perform minimalistic, cosmetic changes and alter the very fabric of what The Kokoda Track is to those who live on it and those who fought on it and those who want to walk it and understand its place in history. Before they do anything else, ask the people who live there. After all it is their land first.
Hi Charlie
Have not seen you at any of the recent Kokoda meetings. I understand there is a project under way for implementation in April 2010 that is basically going to ask trekkers to provide a blood sample so that they can determine why people are dying in what is being described as the “kill zone” on the Kokoda Track ( personally it sounds to me like a media rev up to give some bones to an urban myth). This must be another of those touchy feely projects you mention. I wonder if it has occurred to these people to ask the long term operators who have been running trips for years without deaths how they achieved this. On the backside of this you will have received a copy of the latest KTA announcement about the introduction of licensing of commercial Kokoda Trail operators. A truly remarkable coincidence given that I put into circulation on 22 September to other industry Associations a discussion paper related to industry licensing in PNG and a means of achieving self regulation within the industry in PNG. looks like we will now end up with Government regulation.
Owen Davis – Papua New Guinea Tourism Industry Association
Hi Owen,
I understand that Dr Sean Rothwell and a team are going to undertake some research with trekkers in April 2010. Sean trekked with us in 2006 and he has a company called Adventure Medicine – http://www.adventuremedicine.net After returning from our trek he worked with us to develop an appropriate Medical Clearance Form for our Adventure Kokoda trekkers. It is a comprehensive procedure that requires trekkers with risk factors (diabetes, hypertension, smoking history, high cholesterol, history of family heart disease, body mass index (km/m >35) to submit to an exercise stress test, a myocardial perfusion scan, or a stress echo.
Whilst this will obviously not guarantee a trekker will complete the trail it does minimise the risk. The Kokoda Track Authority does not currently require any form of medical clearance from applicants for a Trek Permit and I regard this as a dereliction of their duty of care for such a rugged and remote environment.
I think long term operators are beating their heads up against the wall in their attempts to pass on the value of their experience and represent the views of their trekkers over the years.
I have just received the circulation in regard to the proposed licensing system for trek operators. It is certainly a remarkable coincidence! Government regulation generally results in another layer of bureaucracy and higher costs with no guarantee of better outcomes. I support your concept of self-regulation and I believe a system of accreditation for trek operators would be a simpler and better option.
Firstly, my condolences to Paul Bradfield’s family and friends. It is a dreadful tragedy, and even more so, knowing he was on the Kokoda Track raising funds for such a worthy cause as Camp Quality. The Kokoda Track Authority (KTA) will donate the proceeds of this weeks trek permit receipts to Camp Quality.
Any death on the Kokoda Track is one too many and the KTA will continue to work closely with trekkers, tour operators, local communities and Governments to reduce the risks involved in walking the Kokoda Track.
The KTA is a PNG Government authority supported by the Australian Government with two staff (myself and an operations manager) plus a KPMG contractor to provide financial expertise and transparency. Since I arrived in April my first priorities have been to;
• Establish proper governance through a functioning Management Committee (Board)
o Effective Management Committee established and functioning
• Provide financial certainty through transparency and accountability
o Financial reports developed and misappropriated funds reclaimed
• Develop open communication with tour operators, trekkers, local communities and governments
o Trekker exit surveys at airports
o Tour operator forums in PNG and Australia (one has been held in Brisbane & another in Port Moresby)
o Monthly tour operator newsletters
o Ministerial walk of the Track to meet with every village (undertaken last month)
o Regular meetings with government
• Ensuring there is a physical presence on the Track (Rangers)
o Two new Track Officers (Rangers) employed based at Owers Corner and Efogi
o Two track permit officers have also been recruited
o Recruitment for a Kokoda Track Officer is currently underway
• Keeping the Track open by ensuring local communities are receiving benefits from the trekking industry and associated tourism
o All fourteen Wards have now received K10,000 as tourism services funding funded through trekking permits, and will receive a further K5,000 in October
o Each village physically on the Track has entered into a “Track Maintenance Agreement” to maintain the track near their village
o A “Capacity Building Program” whereby 54 local people are being trained in track building skills is currently underway. This initiative will provide a trained workforce that the KTA can contract to undertake track maintenance in the future.
• Providing choice and security to trekkers
o A Kokoda Code of Conduct, a voluntary protocol was developed and agreed by tour operators
o “Commercial Tourism Licences” will be introduced at the start of the 2010 trekking season
o A KTA website is currently being developed so that trekkers will soon be able to access independent and objective advice
o A “Track Analysis” to determine what maintenance/safety issues exist on the Track and to inform a works program to deal with these issues has been completed
o The KTA is partnering with medical researchers to undertake a controlled study in April next year
o The KTA has been appointed to manage components of the delivery of the “Kokoda Safety Package”, and will undertake a range of projects such as repairs to the Owers Corner road, repair of the Sogeri bridge, upgraded airstrip infrastructure, and improvements to the radio network.
• Improving “on track” communications
o Replacement of Mt Fala radio infrastructure, repeater, aerial and installation of a dedicated channel for tour operators.
o Installation of new radio and satellite phone recharging stations at Owers Corner, Kokoda and Efogi
o Purchase of six handheld radios, with “moonraker” aerials, for use by Rangers
I am unaware of any track or trail anywhere in the world that requires all trekkers to submit a medical clearance before a permit is issued. Most family General Practitioners would have difficulty in providing a comprehensive medical clearance due to the unique nature of the Kokoda challenge.
All three trekkers who died this year on the Track would appear to have completed an extensive training program and were considered “fit and well”. The tour operators involved were high quality operators providing a very professional service.
Trekkers are not, and should not, be required to use a tour operator when trekking. People should have a choice as to what experience they are seeking. Some choose to walk with a locally engaged guide or porter, but the vast majority chooses to walk with an organized group. The Kokoda Track means many things to many people and the KTA wants to provide opportunities for people to experience the sacrifice of 1942, the fascinating culture of the people, and the unique flora and fauna.
The volunteers and professional track builders currently on the Track are training local people to undertake paid work into the future. This initiative will create 54 jobs in the villages along the Track and will address two key issues for us.
1. Create meaningful employment for local people that links benefits to trekking; and
2. Develop capacity along the track to undertake maintenance and track clearing as required.
It will also open opportunities for Australians and others, in the future, to visit villages along the Track and stay and contribute to the local communities by working with these trained people to undertake maintenance tasks. Often people wish to make a positive and tangible contribution to Kokoda Track communities – this program will provide a meaningful opportunity to do this.
The Track has vastly greater numbers walking over its mountains and rivers than ever before. The work the volunteers and professional track builders are doing is to prevent further impacts from this increased traffic by diverting water (rain run-off) away from eroding the track, clearing the Kokoda Airstrip and repairing landslips. The work is being done in association with the local communities who understand the land and what is best but don’t necessarily have an understanding of what a trekker is seeking from the experience. That is exactly why working together will provide a better outcome for the Track’s future. The Australian and New Zealand leaders have spoken at length with tour operators such as Soc Kienzle and Warren Bartlett to ensure that have an understanding of the Track’s importance and experience before they traveled to the Track.
The Track is the primary transport route for the people who live there and a balance must be achieved between the trekker’s desire for a challenging and difficult walk with the local communities desire to have a quick and safe way of moving through their country.
The land on which the Track traverses is indigenously owned. It is essential the KTA works closely with local people living along the Track to ensure they receive benefits from the trekking as they have a choice to allow trekking to happen or to allow competing activities such as logging and mining to occur on their land. The provision of basic services is paramount to these communities, the same way it is for any community in the rest of PNG or Australia. Locals want to see health clinics, schools, have access to safe drinking water, and business and employment opportunities for their people. The KTA will continue to engage closely with the people on the ground – we will listen to their views and respond where we can.
At last week’s Board Meeting, the KTA Management Committee passed a resolution to introduce Commercial Tourism Licences for the 2010 trekking season. These licences will require minimum standards to be met by operators and will provide a better experience for trekkers. The licences will be based around safety, training, first aid, communications, legal requirements and porters’ conditions. The KTA will work closely with all stakeholders to develop the detail of the scheme to ensure the program is achievable and beneficial.
The KTA staff are working extremely hard in providing a quality experience for trekkers that provides benefit to the local communities and will continue to do so into the future.
Rod Hillman
Chief Executive
Kokoda Track Authority
Rod,
It beggars belief that a chain-smoking, unfit, overweight person with crook knees and advanced heart disease can receive a permit to trek across the Kokoda Trail. Such a person is not even obliged to engage a PNG guide or porter, carry a sat phone or even submit an itinerary. All he has to do is send a cheque for $100 to the Kokoda Track Authority.
This is the current situation on the Kokoda Trail and Australian trekkers are dying as a result!
I sincerely hope that not many more will have to die before it becomes a mandatory requirement to submit a medical clearance certificate with each application for a trek permit.
My strong recommendation for a mandatory medical clearance for trekkers is based on my 56 crossings of the Kokoda Trail over the past 18 years and my discussions with other experienced trek leaders. During this time I have had to organise a number of emergency evacuations. These have involved stretcher bearing over hazardous terrain, the preparation of emergency helipads in dense jungle, and communication by runner, radio and satellite phones.
When I first began leading treks we only required a medical certificate signed by a doctor. I soon found that this was not effective as most doctors had no idea of the physical difficulties involved in crossing the Owen Stanley Range via the Kokoda Trail.
We then consulted with a doctor from Adventure Medicine, Dr Sean Rothwell, who trekked with us in 2006. Dr Rothwell developed a research based Medical Clearance Certificate which takes into account a trekkers medical history, identifies risk factors and notes any medication requirements. Trekkers with significant risk factors are required to undergo a supervised stress test before the examining doctor signs off on the clearance.
In the past two years two applicants discovered they had advanced heart disease during this process. It is highly probable that both would have died on the track if they had been allowed to trek. Whilst neither one got to trek they are both still alive.
I believe the failure of the management authority to require a comprehensive medical clearance certificate is a dereliction of their duty of care given the tropical conditions, the ruggedness and remoteness of the mountainous terrain, the fragility of communications, and the potential for adverse weather to delay evacuation by air.
Whilst the ‘priorities’ listed in your response are commendable they have failed to deliver the outcomes required for a sustainable trekking industry across the Kokoda Trail. For example, after three years in-situ:
· There is no requirement for trekkers to have a medical clearance certification prior to trekking;
· there is no trek operator accreditation system;
· there is no campsite accreditation system;
· neither trek operators nor trekkers are required to submit an itinerary for their trek;
· there is no system to survey trekkers’ views of their Kokoda experience (you mention that there are ‘Trekker exit surveys at airports’. We are not aware of this and not one of our trekkers has ever been approached in this regard).
· there has not been a single workshop conducted in villages along the trail to get feedback from landowners, clan leaders, teachers, etc.
· there is no dispute resolution system in place for trek operators to resolve issues (and there are plenty of them) with landowners;
· there is no plan in place to protect the welfare of PNG trek guides and carriers;
· there are no plans to develop and protect the military heritage of the Kokoda campaign along the trail.
· etc, etc, etc.
Much of the information in your response is patronising waffle. After 18 years and 56 crossings I am well aware of the fact that the land is ‘indigenously owned’. I am also aware that PNG is a sovereign nation – that is why I refer to it as the ‘Kokoda Trail’ because that is the official name on their statute books. I am further aware that there is constant conflict over the ownership of land and there is no system in place to resolve it in spite of the fact that we have had an Australian presence in the KTA for the past three of years.
I am aware that villages along the trail must receive shared benefits from the trekking industry. That is why I fought for the establishment of a Special Purpose Authority and the implementation of trek fees in 2000 – years before the Australian cavalry arrived. I worked closely with the PNG Minister for Inter- government Affairs, Sir Peter Barter, to make it happen. This involved considerable personal expense in travelling to Port Moresby on many occasions for meetings with various Ministers and Departmental Heads.
I also have a reasonable understanding of village needs as a result of village workshops I initiated and helped to fund between 2004 – 2006. The results were presented to both governments as a basis of helping to develop a model for a sustainable eco-tourism industry along the Kokoda Trail – the plan is accessible on this link: http://www.kokodatreks.com/docs/StrategicPlanfortheKokodaTrailNoPics.pdf
Unfortunately there has not been any follow up workshops in villages since then. It is also interesting that local villagers did not identify most of the initiatives now being touted by the recent wave of consultants and ‘experts’ during these workshops (which were facilitated by professional facilitators with extensive experience in Melanesian language and culture).
As we never received any formal acknowledgement or thanks for this work I decided to try a different approach and submitted a discussion paper which can be viewed at: http://www.kokodatreks.com/docs/ADiscussionPaperontheKokodaEcoTrekkingIndustryNoPics.pdf
The recent engagement of ‘volunteers and professional track builders’ to cut steps along the trail is akin to vandalism. There are much more practical solutions to those sections of the track suffering from erosion and these can be provided by responsible trek operators who, believe it or not, have great respect for the Koiari and Orokaiva people along the trail, a great respect for the environment Owen Stanley’s, and a great love for Papua New Guineans. All you have to do is ask!
If we are dinkum about assisting our PNG cousins to develop, nurture and manage eco-tourism we should be sponsoring them on long-term exchange programs in our national parks in Australia, establishing scholarships programs in our universities and allowing them access to our farming communities for seasonal work. More information on these suggestions are contained in a submission I made to a Senate inquiry which you can view at: http://www.kokodatreks.com/docs/SenateSubmissiononSeasonalLabourfromthePacificRegion1.pdf
The next most important step would be to acknowledge that the PNG Department of Community Services is the proper authority for initiatives involving community development in PNG. The KTA should acquaint themselves with their Community Learning Development Centre concept and work in partnership with them to implement the program in villages along the Kokoda Trail. The Minister responsibe is Dame Carol Kidu and the Head of the Department is Dr Joseph Klapat.
Finally, I am not sure how the KTA can say they are ‘working extremely hard in providing a quality experience for trekkers’ if they do not know what trekkers regard as ‘quality experience’.
I walked the Track with Adventure Kokoda in April/may 2006 and I was not dissapointed in any part of my journey. John, Chad and Bernie knew what they where about. I did take on board the pre training that Charlie advised as I knew only to well what i was heading for physicaly as i spent part of my childhood in PNG.
At this time I do not know what caused the latest death on the Track and I am probably the last person who wants any form of bureaucratic controls on the Kokoda. However I feel that there are some controls that are needed. The first I feel is that treck operators be accredited. That is they know the track, it’s histroy, best access points for airlift if needed, sat phones, first aide abilities and equipment, good employers(know how to treat staff) of local staff etc.
The next is that all operators should supply in their written instructions to clients, a medical form that gives a good overview of the physical requirements. This form to be signed by clients Dr, prior to departured from Aust. What will this achive. Hopefully the doctor will read the phyical requirements and knock back those who would be at great risk of needing to be medivaced out. I would also like to think that it would be a requirement for Dr. to knock back any one who was obese, smoker, or with heart/lung or conditions.
The building of stairs on the Track. I hope those that are doing this flood proof them otherwise they will be gone within 2 years and cause massive damage. I have seen this done in nearby Pacific Islands and the stairs were a disaster. The other side of this is that I like others find stairs harder than a slope as the stairs force you to take a set size step as opposed to taking a step that is comfortable for yourself.
Just my thoughts
Well said Charlie! Sadly, this is becoming all too common, the news that another Australian has died pursuing a dream to honour our war dead and the sacrifices they made in the service of their country.
It has been said many times in the past that people who undertake to trek the “Bloody Track” really need to seek the advice of those who have completed the trek before them.
I believe that there should be mandatory medical screening before committing to such an enterprise.
One really should read the various literature on Kokoda to gain an insight into the conditions to be found there.
Most importantly, Papua New Guinea is a developing country with all of the challenges that entails, you must be very fit!
What motivates you to go to Kokoda? Is it the eco tourism challenge or is it to learn about the wartime history of the Kokoda Campaign. If the answer is because it’s there then I would question the suitability of people going there.
I have done the Track from Kokoda to Owers Corner. It is an extremely arduous undertaking both physically and emotionally, you need to be ready for both. I elected to carry my own gear, all 16kgs of it and I only just made it. My guide told me that I needed to apply myself to complete this trek. He taught me a lot about myself and those who fought for Australia and won. It is no walk in the park.
During the war, the Generals is Brisbane clearly had no idea what the Diggers were experiencing on the Track. I suggest that history is repeating itself only this time it isn’t the Generals but the bureaucrats.
It is time a comprehensive risk assessment is done to ensure that the risk to life is minimized and if that means some can’t go then so be it. Not all can climb Mount Everest so why assume all can walk the Kokoda Track?
My thoughts and prayers go out to the family of Paul Bradfield at this time.
Ian Townsend
Kokoda Trekker (AK910)
Hi Charlie,
I note the comments by Rod Hillman and agree with much of what is proposed. If the works on the track are designed to limit erosion then that’s fine. However, cutting steps??? Having watched so many of the locals travel that track, barefoot and with no difficulty at all amazes me why any assistance such as steps is necessary. if it is for us, the trekkers, then why stop there? Build escalators!
Very happy with the establishment of protocols, but they should include adequate medical clearance nevertheless. I was 62 when I walked the trail in June 2008 and Charlie’s mob made it very difficult for me as I have two coronary indicators. I am pleased they made it difficult. My daughter Emma, who accompanied me also made it difficult, imposing a strict 6-month training schedule on me. Its all very well for those who choose to walk the track without the formal assistance of a tour group – (be it on your own, pal!) But those who do choose to walk with a tour group should be reassured, knowing that that group is formally accredited and providing sound advice in terms of preparation, insurance and medical hoops for them to negotiate, and is properly equipped.
Yes, ask the locals what they want, and yes, ask the trekkers!
Whilst I also have great sympathy for those trekkers who have lost their lives on the trail, their families should rest in the knowledge that their loved ones died completing a great adventure, treading in the footsteps of young heroes, many of whom also gave their lives in their endeavours to prevent the invasion of Australia by an evil force.
Stuart Bryce
Kokoda June/July 2008
I think that its about time to stop stuffing around and get serious. I think that all of the tour groups should all get together and develop some procedures to prevent any more of these tragic events happening. I was a member of the AK910 in June this year and found the trek to be one of the greatest life exeriences that i have had in my life so far. We were fortunate enough to have 2 fantastic tour guides in Chad Sherrin and Bernie Rowell who were obviously very experienced in first aid and had a thorough knowledge of the track. The question needs to be asked are the other tour groups as prepared and do they have the same level of professionalism that Adventure Kokoda currently has. I was very impressed thoughout the buildup to our leaving date the amount of information with regards to trek requirements that i recieved. The medicals that were required for me to undertake prior to being able go as i am over 50 was also fairly intense. If things dont change surely the opportunity to walk the track will diminish. I would hate to see that happen.
I would also like to extend our condolences to all of those that have lost people on the track.
Charlie,
I was saddened to hear about another unfortunate death on the trail. It really does cut to the quick when one has been over that ground and can understand what those victims had set out to achieve, and ultimately what they have missed out on.
Whilst I do agree with the strict medical requirements which Adventure Kokoda has in place (this is critical), I also believe that this must be coupled with personal responsibility prior to such an arduous challenge. I had a long association with my GP prior to sending my final payment and medical clearance form, as my GP was not happy to sign off until the last possible date to ensure that no complications had arisen which potentially may have become an issue on the trek. My GP and I knew when I embarked on the trek that I had a medical condition which increased the risk of a fracture in the event of a fall, however after several medical tests and procedures my GP and I decided that my general fitness was of a reasonable standard and that my awareness of the problem would assist in minimalising a mishap and consequent evacuation. However, what I did not realise was that in noting this condition on my application form, the guides in our group were immediately presented with an extra issue which they had to be aware of and which they probably could have done without. This meant that my personal porter and several others were also made aware that a fall could turn into an evacuation – something none of us would have wished for. I had a long discussion with one of our guides at some stage along the trail and we basically decided that someone with my condition perhaps should be excluded from being able to undertake this challenge. Not only did it present an added risk to myself, it also put extra pressure on the team as I was one of the last in to camp each day. Whilst I would not have wanted to miss this opportunity for the world, I can now clearly see that if I had not trekked with such a reputable and professional team, I may also have been an evacuee. For this reason I cannot speak too highly of AK and its very passionate and professional leaders. It enabled me to fulfil a desire to see where the diggers suffered so much and for so long. In hindsight I am not sure that I should have undertaken this challenge, but would have been bitterly disappointed if it did not eventuate. I know that it may be difficult for the medical profession to make a call on a person who has a known medical condition, but it is impossible when there are undiagnosed or unknown issues which may be the cause of a death or evacuation.
I am extremely proud that I completed the trek and it will always be the toughest challenge in my life emotionally, physically and mentally.
As for the work being undertaken along the trail – let’s not make it a walk in the park as I believe it will encourage more people who are intent on doing just a walk in the park – not people like us who have already done the hard yards and experienced a snippet of what the diggers endured. It will become just another walk, and lose the real spiritual attraction that it now possesses.
Charlie, do as our diggers did, and keep up the on fight.
Liz
Hi Charlie,
It was very sad to hear of another recent death on the Kokoda Track and my thoughts go out to the family and friends concerned. I walked the Track in August 08 with my son Darren and Nephew Paul in honour of my father Peter Benson WX14638 who served in the 2/14th Bat. in Papua New Guinea. My thoughts are similar to yours. Why change the track in any way as this is what we go to experience. If we are not fit enough we should not be taking on this challenge as it is a very strenuous walk. I also walked with your group Adventure Kokoda led by Peter and it was a very proficient and well organised trek. I do feel the Medical Examination prior to the walk in my case left a lot to be desired. I understood the severity of the trek and was very concerned at my ability to complete the trek even though I consider myself very fit. My doctor however took a very blase` attitude and dismissed my medical with contempt. This makes me feel there should be doctors who specialise in this field who understand and have possibly even walked the track themselves. The medical profession may need to be provided with more education on treking in conditions such as the track.
Regards
Peter
Charlie,
Yes i am also sad when i hear reports of another death in PNG.
I am also sadened when i hear of other tragic events throughout the world.
It would be nice if we all could do whatever we wanted in life but sometimes things don’t work out that way.
My experience on “The Track” was an experience of a lifetime which i did in Sep 2007 (45yrs) with my 20 year old son, Chad & Bernie – a great bunch of “extraordinary” people.
My son Reuban said he wanted to do the Trek. Stupidly i said i would go to keep an eye on him.
He read up about how grueling this walk and started us both on a fitness programme 6 months beforehand.
Adventure Kokoda supplied a great Get Ready package.
He also talked me into carrying a full pack. He wanted us to experience this as close to the Diggers as we could do.
We made it. Had a great time, made new friends & learnt a great deal from the Guides.
My message is leave the track as it is. Do your Homework. Get fit & go with people who cover everything.
Thanks to Chad & Bernie for getting us through safely.
Regards,
Mark.
Charlie
I walked the Track in July 2007, using your company Adventure Kokoda. I went with Barry Shepherd, who has also made a comment on this blog, and several other friends. We walked from Kokoda to Owers Corner.
My thoughts on the issues of maintaining the Track and deaths on the Track are as follows:
Using Adventure Kokoda was the best decision that we made. The professionalism and care exhibited by everyone we met from the company was outstanding. We were very ably led by John, whos knowledge of the Track and importantly its history is second to none. The information provided each day made this not just a challenging physical undertaking but a learning exercise. I finished feeling that I had accomplished something I can personally be proud of (I am known to boor people at BBQ’s with Kokoda Track stories) and that I learned a lot about the campaign our soldires fought. While I thought I knew the Kokoda Track story, after my walk along the Track I really know the story of their harship and heroism.
The walk also gave me an insight into the conditions under which the locals live. I would not like to see the Track ‘improved’ so that it loses its character and becomes what others call a “walk in the park”. However, the one thing that would improve the lot of the locals, without causing harm to the Track’s character, is the installation of toilets that I have seen used in Australian national parks, where certain worms are used to destroy the human waste. Just a thought.
I fail to understand how people who are not medically fit can go on the walk. I and my friends had to complete an exhaustive medical sheet provided by Adventure Kokoda. My doctor put me through extensive blood tests and a stress test before signing the form. I undertook nearly 18 months of training to get fit enough and it still wasn’t enough. The mental toughness needed is another story. The second day on the Track, which was the first full days walking, separated the fit from the not so fit. I found that me and others were trying to keep up with the leaders who were younger and fitter. You felt that you should not fall behind and this caused a few of us to struggle early on. John quickly summed up the situation and we few became the ‘Tail End Charlies’ (and proud of it) with John telling us to go at our own pace. To help in this regard, John would sometimes send us out half an hour early with a guide so that we all finished each leg at about the same time. I think that some of the people who have died on the Track may have been trying to keep up rather than go at their pace.
How hard would it be to develop a standard medical form? Why aren’t the operators all licensed and subject to the same standards?
Regards
Arch
Hi,
I walked the track because I wanted to understand what happened there in 1942. I wanted to experience the PNG wilderness. I enjoy extended bush walks and I wanted to see a little of PNG more broadly.
My experience was greatly enhanced by having to experience and endure the Track in the raw and some, what some would call, ‘hardship’.
I went there to see the Kokoda track, not stairs, bridges, shops, flushing toilets and other trappings of western comfort, which I can also enjoy but which can be found anywhere. I was over 60 and understood the hazards and risks. I prepared accordingly but knew and accepted that ‘shit might happen’.
We were with a well organised and well run group, all PNG locals, we had a great time and, despite one or two hairy bits, were incident free.
However all things must and will change as will the Kokoda Track experience. From my experience there and elsewhere on similar ‘world class’ treks the following might be worth considering.
– Manage the use of the Track more closely. Limit numbers and charge more if neccesary to compensate. This will save the Track and enhance the experience. They will still come.
– With a few exceptions, dont mess up the Track with too much costly, high liability, often unsustainable support infrastructure – this will be assisted by limiting numbers. Let it be, within reason, The Track.
– Support improvements to education and health etc for the local villages but don’t let them become commercialised by the Track patrons and their ‘demands’.
– Like Mt Everest, not everone can or should be allowed to attempt the Track. It is not a picnic and there is more to it than just spending a few hours a week training in a clean dry Gym back home. Health assesments should be mandatory but, things will still go wrong, even for the fittest walker – that’s life.
– An option for people wanting to just visit the Track and see a little of it from a historical perspective would be to organise short treks from, say, Kokoda to Isurava (A fantastic place) and return.
– Overall – try not to destroy the environment and the experience, as tough as it can be, that many of us went there to enjoy. It can be empowering and character building.
Someone had died on the Track not long befor our walk. We and the locals were very sad and quiet as we passed that place. Another relatively young person apparently. Other than pre-walk fitness checks what can we do to make any wilderness experience 100% safe ? My sincere condolences to the recently bereaved young family.
It’s important to determine where we want the Track to be in 10, 20, 30 years time and plan accordingly now before we start digging steps and the like. Do we want a moving historical and wilderness experience or a gentle ride on a virtual escalator with headphones and guidebook before heading back to another boring 5 star night in a hotel ?
Good Luck
Trevor May
Gday Charlie,
I hope this blog helps to achieve some real outcomes for the track and for PNG as a whole.
My husband (Glenn) and I completed the track in March 2008 under the expert guidance of Chad and Bernie and excellent porters and having travelled a fair bit around the globe, we still think that Kokoda was the best trip we have done.
I have read the above comments with interest, particularly Rod Hillman’s comment.
Whilst there “appears” to be lots of things happening, the fundemental issue of people dying really hasn’t been addressed. It won’t matter how many steps are cut into the sides of mountains, or how many meetings the KTA have, the underlying issue is having “less harm” come to trekkers. Rod obviously doesn’t have any medical background…as there is not one dot point that suggests upgrading medical equipment etc on the track or any form of remote access to medical instructions. The biggest saviour to ill people is the access to “definitive medical care”, this is what needs to be addressed as a priority, not having more meetings and building bridges that will be washed out next monsoon.
I feel I can comment on the first aid/medical aspects of the conundrum, as I am a registered nurse, trained in emergency room nursing and have been working in rural remote areas for the past 15 years, with similar problems to PNG in terms of medical help and sheer remoteness with people being acutley ill.
During our time on the track, our group experienced first hand having a fellow trekker fall unconscious and need air transport out. We also experienced the inclement weather which made emergency retrieval impossible until the next morning. Our porters had to make a stretcher from saplins and vine and had to carry him 3 hours to the next village in hope that we could airlift him out.
1. Each village needs an RFDS kit (or similar) stored in a prominant place, so that trekkers and villagers can have access to it if need be.
Royal Flying Doctors Service Kit is what we use in remote Australia cattle properties in the event that someone is hurt or needs medical assistance before trained assistance can get there. You don’t need any medical training to be able to use one of these kits.
2. Each tour group needs to have:
. Portable Blood Pressure Machine (for measuring Blood Pressure and pulse)
Glucometre (for measuring Blood Sugar levels)
. Oxygen Saturation Monitor (for measuring Oxygen levels in the blood)
. Themometre (for measuring temparature)
These units are very small and compact and don’t take up much space.
You don’t need to be medically trained to use these.
3. Each Tour group needs to have:
. Ventolin puffer (for asthma or shortness of breath)
. Glucogon/pure glucose drink (for low blood sugar levels)
. Aspirin (for suspected heart problems)
. Gastrolyte or other high concentration Potassium/magnesium drink (for suspected electrolyte imbalances)
. Hypothermia balnket (for stabilizing body temparature, especially at night or when drenched from the rain)
There are also a few other things that I reckon might be of benefit, but these are too many to write about here. the point of this blog is to try and stop people dying on the track.
The KTA needs to organize some sort of communications service with RFDS or similar in Cairns so that the above items can be used in conjunction with medical advice given by RFDS doctors via remote sat phone. (This is how remote Australia operates for medical services and has done for many years). PNG/Kokoda Track is actually closer than a lot of Central Australia is to definitive medical care.
The process for remote Australia when someone is ill…a carer takes their Blood Pressure, Pulse temparature, Blood Sugar level etc and relays this info and a brief history of the event to an RFDs doctor who then makes a preliminary diagnosis and can instruct the carer about what to do next. The RFDS kit is then accessed and a simple instructions is given of which drug to give that will best help the sick or injured person.
The access to aerial retrivial in PNG is 100 times better than rural and remote Australia, there are choppers on stand by in Port Moresby as well as planes, much of rural Australia is yet to experience retrieval choppers. The use of RFDS kits would have a huge flow on effect for local villages, who could also access these kits for early treatment of their own afflictions, especially preventable childhood illnesses.
Of course, there would have to be strict guidelines about access and replenishing stock levels within the RFDS kits, but modern communication could easily be used to ensure that anything used could be radioed to Port Moresby for the next tour group to take the replacement drugs with them for re-stocking in the appropriate village kit. This is where Isee the KTA being of benefit as an overarching group, not cutting steps into the sides of mountains.
Our trek leaders did have first aid training, as did myself and my husband, but maybe, some mandatory first aid training might be beneficial as part of compliance guidlines for tour operators. Also some education in the effects of electolyte imbalances, low blood sugar levels and muscle fatigue issues, may be of benefit to future trekkers. And what signs to look for. I know myself, that by day 5 and 6, I knew that I wasn’t replacing enough electrolytes to stop the effects of muscle fatigue, and I know that Staminade was a waste of time…it wasn’t until I started drinking my stash of gastrolyte that I could feel mself coming good for the next uphill climb.
It would be interesting to do an audit of what stage of the track, (or which day) that the deaths and serious illnesses have occured. An audit of what day the aerial retrivals are done would also give an indication of which points along the track could be better equipped. My hunch is that it would be at that day 4,5 or 6 that most problems may have occured. The body’s ability to recover is really being tested by this stage, and even the fittest of humans react differently to tissue and internal organ recovery. My understanding of the poor people who have died, have been, in fact, quite fit and healty people. So, it doesn’t matter what type of medical checks are done beforehand, everybody reacts differently to severe muscle and body stress. Hence, you can never predict who will be struck down.
For my husband and myself, we only did about 2 months training, and now know that we should have done much more!!!
We are used to working in 40 degree heat, day in and day out, with not enough fluid replacement etc. But for someone who has an air-conditioned office job and does 6 months training etc, for a few hours in the afternnons, they won’t have the inbuilt toughness and be able to re-cuperate as quickley as someone who endures similar conditions as those in PNG.
After returning to Australia from PNG, I did some serious delving into whether the RFDS could provide medical advise to trekkers on the Kokoda Track. I spoke to the bosses in Brisbane, the bosses at the Cairns Base etc. The overiding problem, was that PNG is not governed under the laws of Australia, and they weren’t sure how the legalities of giving phone advice to people in a foriegn country would stand. Also, the use of drugs in PNG and what is legal may be different to here in Oz. The underlying mission of the RFDS is to provide medical services to Australians, and they also had a problem with how they would be percieved to be providing assistance to a foriegn country with mostly donated funds from Australia. I did point out that most trekkers were infact Australian anyway!!!
I actually thought it would be a tremendous plug for the RFDS, to have a profile amoungst urban Australians, who would not necessarily ever need the assisstance of their services while living on coastal Australia.
In the end, I had to give it up and put it all in the too hard basket, as I was a little fish in a big ocean trying to meddle in the workings of a hugely beauracratic organization meshed with Australian government health departments……need I say more!!!
This is where I see that the KTA and politicians in both PNG and here could make a real difference to outcomes and a real improvement to health outcomes for trekkers and villagers alike. They would also save themselves a heap of money by
addressing the real issue of people dying, instead of sidestepping with “feel good” activites (as Charlie says).
I personally feel that there should be no beautification work done to the track, I do agree with Arch about the “eco-toilets”, these being to avert further health issues in the future when there are even more trekkers using them.
Heres hoping that things becme less frustrating for you Charlie on your quest for the best for the Kokoda Track, we support your views all the way.
Cheers,
Natalie Williams
Hi Charlie,
Having walked the track in May 07 with Adventure Kokoda I am constantly surprised by peoples view that have not been there that the terrain is only hilly. The track is very tough and there are no hills only mountains. If you have not prepared well you set yourself up to fail. Whilst any death is a tradgedy unknown or unexpected medical conditions are a fact of life and the track will bring them to the fore with the sheer physical effort it takes to complete this journey. Medical forms are a must but only if they are filled out correctly and honestly. As for cutting steps what a load of ….. the soldiers did not have steps, we did not have steps so to preserve the authenticity leave it as it was. Perhaps the government could send us who have trekked a survey to complete but they probably would not like the answers.
Kind Regards,
Mike
Hello Charlie,
Another death and very sad. However the reality is that it is a very dangerous country and if one commits to undertaking such a trek, one must accept the risks. I walked from Owers Corner to Kokoda in June/July this year with Adventure Kokoda and cannot speak more highly of our trek leader Rowan Tracey, our porters and the whole organisation of our trek. I was initially a little dismissive regarding the fitness requirements recommended by AK particularly for my age-group (60yrs) but so glad I complied.
For me it was a long thought-about undertaking based on the respect and awe I felt for my father-in-law, my father and all others including the Japanese soldiers whose lives were changed and often ended on that trail during the second WW, and gave me a deeper level of empathy for what they endured. What would be the point of “dumbing-it-down” by building steps, perhaps guard-rails and other such safety requirements? What about a few coffee shops or fast-food outlets perhaps?Those soldiers would be turning in their graves – at least they’d have a laugh I guess.
We are living in an over-protected society and I would be horrified to see this happen.
Cherie Ferguson
Tonight I will have the pleasure of enjoying dinner with one of our Trek Leaders Peter and his wife Amy over in Perth. As discussion will no doubt turn to this recent tragedy I felt the need to put in my response beforehand.
In April this year AK903 left from Owers for Kokoda and while we had 5 people evacuated none were from pre existing medical reasons. I am 57 and my daughter Sally is 23 and we both were required to complete medical forms. I now know why!
My thoughts are that most trekkers, certainly our group, was very specific in why they seek out such a physically demanding adventure. Sally is a Medic in the Army reserve and was encouraged to learn about our soldiers survival and so i got involved and starting reading only to find that i had been taught very little during my time at school.
Our Trek commenced each day with a briefing that included everthing that occurred during the Kokoda Campaign on that stretch of mountain. These stories poems and history were repeatedly told to us during the whole Trek not just around the camp fire. Peter and Charlie knew their stuff and we heard every last emotional story or poem. My point is that most trekkers are there to find out the bits of history that our education system has failed to teach us. Others are just there for the physical challenge.
If you do it with Adventure Kokoda you get both for the same price. Yes the Medical forms are extensive but i am one that was pleased to pay the money and get the tests done to make sure i came home. That i did and am now far more knowledgeable but completely stuffed physically and emotionally.
First of all I would like to put out my condolences to all of the families of those trekkers that have died in the recent years.
Yes there has been deaths on the Trail in recent times, but are these deaths the result of the Trail being “DANGEROUS” or just the result of poorly equipped and inexperienced leaders, who are just there to make a buck. The problem doesn’t lie with the Kokoda Trail but with the management and lack of regulations required to trek the Trail or be a Trek Leader. If people are able to trek the Trail no matter what ailments they might have, well this is simply asking for trouble. We all know that unknown ailments are a fact of life and can hit you unexpectedly, but these are the reasons trekkers should have to have a GP fill out an extensive medical form after a full physical to ensure that the person wanting to trek is in the best health, before they are granted a trekking license.
As for the cutting of steps and building of bridges I firmly believe that it is the biggest load of bullshit i have ever heard. What ever happened to preserving the Trail because of its historical values. There wasn’t any steps cut into the Trail in the war apart from the Jap stairs and the Golden Staircase which were put there by the soldiers. So why on earth should we be cutting knew steps now. This not only takes away the originality of the trail but also destroys it. These steps will cause greater amounts of erosion of the Kokoda Trail adding to the damage of this incredibly beautiful and brutal landscapes. I trekked the Trail earlier this year and found nothing wrong with it. Yes it is an extremely difficult task and should not be taken lightly, but it is not impossible. As long as you pay attention to what you are doing and take care of yourself and those around you then the Trail is not that Dangerous. But i can definitely see that if you came unprepared without training along with inexperienced leaders then it could become deadly. Which is something i think has been proven.
As for building bridges on the trail. Well that is total and utter RUBBISH!!!!!!!!
For how many thousand of year have the local Papuan people been building bridges? if you don’t think the locals build safe and reliable bridges then i think the fault is in the user, not in the bridge. It is like trying to tell your grandmother how to suck eggs. These “Feel Good Projects” are just plain INSULTING to the Papuan people.
Hows this for an idea. How about these pencil pushing bureaucrats drop their pencils and paper, turn off their computers and Blackberries, take off the shirt and tie, and get their manicured hands a little dirty. How about they step out from behind their desks and go and walk the trail with one of the less equipped companies, then trek the Trail with Adventure Kokoda who know what they are doing, so they can see for themselves where the problems lie. And while they are at it, why don’t they take the time to talk with the Trek Leaders and with the Villagers in order to find out what needs to be done.
Rather than doing what needs to be theoretically done, do what needs to be done practically. The Kokoda Trail is a historic and sacred place that should take pride of place in the pages of history and should be preserved. Lets not destroy it by digging it out and causing erosion etc. How about we make it safer by stopping the Kokoda Cowboys that don’t really know what they are doing. leave it to the hands of the professionals and FOR CHRIST SAKE, GET A BLOODY MEDICAL CHECKUP!!!
Jack,
You are spot on with your comments. Over the years I have invited numerous bureacrats involved with Kokoda to trek with us to get a feel for the historical aspects of the experience and to get progressive feedback from our trekkers during the journey. I have offered to cover all of their expenses.
I believe this would be the most effective form of feedback because they would have a better understanding of the military aspects of the Kokoda campaign and experience the cameraderie that develops amongst the trek group, and the relationships that develop with our guides and carriers, during the trek.
They would see that they would not need to have ‘volunteers and professtional track builders’ digging rubbish pits along the trail because they would see that we carry all of our rubbish out.
They would also have a better appreciation of the original wartime trail as opposed to the easier eco-tourist route.
Unfortunately I have never had a single acceptance – this is a pity because I do not believe they get this quality feedback from smaller eco-trek groups.
Greetings to the AK family,
Enough aussie heros have died on the trek, it is time it stopped.
I had the incredible experience of walking the Trek this year, AK918, with ‘The Chad’. Would just like to make some general comments.
The group, like most others, was made of a wide variety of ages and abilities. 3 or 4 of the young guys could have probably turned straight around and did it again. Some others, like me, were VERY happy to see the glorious arches at the finish, even if we did have another couple of hours walk to the bus due to wet weather.
As is standard with Adventure Kokoda trips, we all had clearances with a few of the ‘elder statesman’ needing an extra test or two. Over the duration of the trek, we had a couple of our guys, have an off day where Chad and Doctor Boi watched them very closely. Knowing that Chad was close at hand and having access to sat phone and full medical kit was reassuring to everyone. For anyone to say that medical clearances are not needing is just beyond a joke.
When we reached our campsite on day 8, we met a young guy by himself. He was part of a group of 4, with no packboys, no trek leaders, no sat phone, no nothing. He had rolled his ankle on the descent to the village and the group decided to leave him behind and would catch up with him later. It was only through the generosity of the villages that he had been housed for a night and one of the locals was going to help him out. Until we got there, he had no strapping or pain relief. It is incredible to think what would have happened if it had been worse. Chad also organised his pick up from Owers and accomodation back at the lodge until the others returned.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but to the best of my knowledge, all of the tragic deaths on the Trek have been as a result of exisitng medical conditions, either known or unknown. I have not heard of anyone falling off the edge and plummeting to their peril or being swept away by a raging river. So it makes me ask the question, what difference are steps or bridges going to do?
In my opinion, making the Trek ‘easier’ is more likely to increase the number of people on the Trek, who will be under prepared for what is ahead.
PLEASE, enough Aussie heros died saving our shores, we need to stop the deaths of those trying to pay their respects. Brisged, steps and rubbish pits are not the answer, being prepared and with a professional outfit are.
Something a few of the military boys and girls will remember, the 7 P’s.
Prior
Planning and
Preparation
Prevent
Piss
Poor
Performance
Hi Charlie,
I, too, am saddened by yet another death on the Kokoda Trail. But, unfortunately, I am not surprised.
I returned early this month, after completing trek AK922, with the extraordinary Peter Davis. Looking back, I’m lucky that I went with Adventure Kokoda. Because without their pre-medical, I may not have taken things so seriously.
When I signed up in March this year, I was mid 40’s, fat and unfit. I weighed in at 100kg, and kidded myself that because I played tennis, coached rugby and went mountain bike riding every week, I must be reasonably fit and I’d be able to do the trek by just adding a few walking sessions to the routine. How wrong I was.
Because it was a condition you put on me, I saw my doctor. He was smart enough to say that I wouldn’t make it, and to get my money back. Instead, I trained hard. Really hard. I dieted. I walked. I gymmed. I did everything I could to make sure I would pass the stress ECG you made me do at great cost. At the time, I was pissed you made me do this. But not now.
Because of your medical checks, I dropped 20kg. I improved cardiovascular fitness by 56%. And I passed the ECG test. Looking back, there is no doubt that without your conditions, I would not have taken my preparation so seriously, and I may have been a candidate for medical evacuation, or worse.
Every single person doing the trek should be forced to do a specific medical and other appropriate tests. It’s not hard to organise. Just ask CAMS. You see, I also participate in motor racing. I have to do a medical to get my racing permit. I have to go to a specific doctor, and pass a specific CAMS medical. Why not the same for Kokoda? Maybe that medical is one reason why fewer people die in Australia participating in Motor Racing than die in New Guinea trekking the Kokoda Trail…
So thanks Charlie. Thanks for the experience of a lifetime. Thanks for forcing me to get serious about my preparation. And thanks for having the guts to ensure I did a full medical before you would let me join you.
So, after my intensive, preparation, how hard was it? At times, tougher than anyone could ever imagine (see the diary I kept at http://mykokodatrek.blogspot.com/). Should we change the track to make it easier? No way in the world. In fact, my fondest memories are the challenges of leaving the eco-tourist “Kokoda Highway”, and following the rugged wartime track.
So leave the track as it is. Just make sure people are prepared for it before they come.
In response to the CEO of the KTA, the only ‘exit survey’ I completed at PNG Airport was a generic survey from PNG tourism and was quite clearly for marketing purposes. Nonetheless, it was NOT for the KTA or Kokoda specifically. The only way to get this feedback from trekkers would be to make the tour operators collect this information post-trek.
Having recently completed the trek (AK922) I am extremely grateful to Adventure Kokoda and to our guide, Peter, not only for the passion and detail of the military history, but for the focus on planning, safety and responsibility for the trekkers. We were fortunate to have dry weather and a small, fit group who experienced nothing other than a few upset stomachs. Nevertheless, it was easy to appreciate that things can change quickly on the trail, and then the “What If” questions become real. Then the planning, local knowledge and medical/safety procedures come to the fore. The trail was an amazing experience, but not one worth dying for.
It is fair to say that trekking Kokoda is now more mainstream than it was some years ago. Increased numbers of people and increased impact on the trail, villages and local people, logically demands better management and some procedure to ensure the safety of trekkers and that money is spent in the right ways to manage the trail and better the lives of local people.
Good luck to the KTA in doing things better, i’m sure there are many people and operators who would gladly assist in a continuous effort to engage with locals and provide feedback.
In such a remote, rugged part of the world, local knowledge would seem to be the most practical, logical and valuable. Hearing such stories as cutting steps into the trail, wire bridges etc reminds me of the story we were told at Goldie River/Owers Corner regarding the order during the war to build a road across the trail (your forgiveness for any historical inaccuracies please). It is actually laughable.
Direct engagement with local people can both determine what the real issues to them are and to maintaining the trail.
Thank you Charlie for your continued passion and also setting a high standard for operating a trekking company on the trail.
I completed the trek last June & I am certainly greatful that the conditions that were place upon us prior to completing the journey as it made us more aware of the difficulties that may be encountered. The medical checks & stress test did make me feel more confident that I could complete the journey even though I had no idea what I was in for. On completion of the trek I realised that not only fitness was required that we need to be healthy as well as some of my group struggled healthwise even though they certainly fit & tough enough. As for changing the track I say leave it alone, I have fond memories of following the rugged wartime track with all the history thrown in.
Charlie,
People ask me daily about the death’s on the track, it can’t be that hard to do.
My answer is simple. Unless you are fit physically and mentally you will have issues – don’t think for one minute that you can just go and do it.
Personally I stated to do Navy Seal bootcamp (Consort fitness) in Frankston 21/2 years ago and because I was 40 yrs old at the time I had to do a full medical including a ECG stress test before I was allowed to start any exercise program.
I became fitter and able to complete 3 x 1hr sessions a week, I decided to do Oxfam Trailerwalker Melbourne in March this year and was training to walk 100 km in 24 hrs, Did It, walking long distance as you are well aware is totally different to running any distance, this walk was physically draining and mentally tough.
I know then that i had to train harder and longer to do the Kokoda track.
When I received the package from Adventure Kokoda to have a full medical and extra requirements regarding age, current medical conditions etc I thought this was the normal practise when going on the Kokoda track.
To find out that companies, trekkers and the like go without the same requirement YOU required for us to go is insane.
People need to KNOW that it is not a walk in the park or piss easy either.
I was not contacted at or after leaving PNG to fill in any survey. If I was I would most certainly be stating ” Doesn’t matter how fit you think to are, do the full medical and any test available to give you the best chance of SURVIVING the Kokoda Track” TRAIN TRAIN TRAIN.
As Simon Hart said to us the night before flying into Kokoda to start the real 144k+ trek ‘Im not your mother and I’m not responsible for your personal wellbeing’.
We choose to do the Kokoda track and should be mentally and physically prepared to do so before leaving Australia. The diggers had no choice.
In saying this, I feel for all the families of the lost souls on the track and remember the good times right from 1942 to the present.
I will be back with my children in 10 yrs and I can assure them we will be ready to do it safely or not at all
Wayno
The impression that seems to be out there is that the Kokoda Track Authority (KTA) is run by “pen-pushing bureaucrats”. Just to reassure the readers of this blog, below is a potted history of the (only) two Australians currently working in the KTA;
Operations Manager
• Long term National Parks Senior Ranger (30 years experience)
• Project Manager of the Heysen Trail (see latest edition of Australian Geographic to read about his work)
• Remote Area Fireman
• Completed unsupported treks on most of Australia’s long distance trails
• Many long distance adventures including kayaking the length of the Murray and a 180 kms sea kayak along Dirk Hartog Island
• Ex stockman
Chief Executive
• National Parks Manager, ten years
• Owner operator of a Kenyan Safari Company, three years
• Tour leader (Africa, Asia, Europe and Middle East), ten years
• Manager of tours on Fraser Island, three years
• Rock-climbing, canoeing and kayaking instructor – Qualified Outdoor Education teacher.
• Stepfather served in PNG
I have put the above out there only to show we are not your “typical bureaucrats” but people who are not new to hard work and understanding what people are seeking in a challenging and deeply significant journey. We are new to PNG but we do listen and we are not here to ruin the Track. We will continue to do are utmost to provide a quality experience to trekkers.
Some of you may have read in the news that the KTA has announced there will be a Commercial Tourism Licence introduced for next trekking season that should alleviate some of the concerns expressed in this blog. (Endorsed at last Thursday’s KTA Board meeting). Any Tour Operator working on the Kokoda Track next year will be required to have an approved licence. Exact details and licence conditions will be determined in consultation with Tour Operators and other stakeholders with final conditions determined by December 2009. A paper will be distributed to tour operators tomorrow morning (Thursday).
Rod Hillman, Chief Executive of the Kokoda Track Authority, does not believe trekkers should be required to obtain a Medical Clearance to trek Kokoda!
Maybe people should take responsibility for themsleves and determine whether or not they should take the track on but, as the authority looking after such matters, surely it has a duty of care to provide adequate safegaurds to ensure (those who do not know just how hard and physically and mentally demanding the track can be) they are capable of completeing it safely.
I’d reckon if you could drive a car over it the authority would demand a road- worthy to make sure it didn’t breakdown half way.
Now as for digging steps and building bridges by the do gooders – I have already commented – unbelievably stupid in my opinon.
Rod,
The Kokoda Track is PNG’s tourism equivelant of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, at least as far as the Australian market is concerned.
As a Liberal Federal MP who completed the trek in April/May this year (with a pack!!) with Charlie and my mate and federal Labor colleague Jason Clare, and as a former MD of Tourism Australia as well as numerous other roles in our tourism industry, if PNG and Australia does not act to take tough measures to protect the integrity of this experience, not only will more Australians neeedlessly die, it will damage future tourism to track itself, but to PNG more broadly – it will destroy your brand.
Key meaures must include mandatory accreditation and regulation of tour operators, only requiring trek touring from Australia with an accredited guide and tough financial sanctions for operators that fail to uphold the requirments of their accreditation.
Part of the requirements for accreditation must obviously include requirement to pay trek fees and be current with all payments. It must also include meeting all necessary safety requirements such as medical and safety equipment, 24 hour base support and carrying appropriate insurance. And contrary to your suggestion there must be some requirement to undertake a medical and fitness test before taking this on. The sheer requirement to do this alerts people to the fact (as others have already noted) that this is no picnic, they are entering a dangerous environment where any weakness could cost them their lives.
I have no doubt that this may increase the cost of undertaking the trek. But the cost of more trekkers being killed, both in terms of lives lost and as a deterrent to further tourism to PNG and the tack will be far greater.
Walking Kokoda has been one the most profound experiences I have ever had the priviledge to undertake. I want my kids to share in that one day, but they won’t be going unless the Authority get their act together on these issues.
I have given voice to these views in our Parliament (see http://www.scottmorrison.com.au/info/speech.aspx?id=117&page=-1) and have raised these matters directly with Minister Garrett. I commend you on many of the other intiatives you have put in place and appreciate you are doing this with a very small resource base. But please don’t shy away from the big reforms – and please listen to blokes like Charlie who (even though getting us a little crazy at times on the trail) I always knew put our saftey first and was committed to the welfare of the PNG people.
I wish you well with your very important task.
Regards
Scot Morrison MP
Federal Member for Cook
Acting Shadow Minister for Infrastructure
Shadow Minister for Housing and Local Government
I have already commented on what i think about the do-gooders digging steps and building bridges. But on receiving the notice that they are planning to build cable bridges instead of wooden ones, well that is just blasphemy. What ever happened to preserving the Trail and keeping it the way it was? As it has been said before, if you can’t hack the conditions of the Trail, GO HOME!
Just because a few un-precautious people may slip off of the original bridges is no reason to go and wreck the originality and spirit of the Kokoda Trail by building ugly, unsightly and unnatural steel ones. Not to mention the fact that it is insulting to the local people who as i have said before been building bridges for as long as they have lived.
As for Rod Hillman and his belief on not needing medical clearance, all i can say to that is Get a reality check mate. As Chief Executive of the Kokoda Authority don’t you have an obligation to at least try to keep the trekkers safe and minimize the number of injuries. You can’t tell me that giving someone who has a heart problem or that suffers from asthma a trekking clearance is the right thing to do. you may say “well if you have these problems then why go.” Well health problems may not be known to the person or they may have underestimated the Trail which is quite common. But the solution to this just to be on the safe side is to have a medical exam. then you know whether or not you are fit and healthy enough to walk the Trail safely. You may say “well it is their life and their choice,” which is a completely correct statement. but in the end the results of a death reflects back on the Trek Leaders and on Rod Hillman. As Chief Executive of the Kokoda Authority he should be taking every precaution to ensure that the blame isn’t passed onto him or anyone else for that matter, and ensureing that these type of things simply don’t happen.
Of course there is going to be injuries. You could be the fittest and best athlete in the world and still hurt yourself, but major issues such as death can be mostly prevented by ensuring the trekker is physically healthy enough to complete the Trail safely. As Jeff Wellard has kindly put, cars need road worthies to ensure the don’t breakdown on the roads, SO WHY SHOULDN’T PEOPLE?
And can someone please do some survey’s in order to develop a proper management plan, because the current one is obviously flawed.
Kokoda Track Authority conducts ‘exit surveys’ on trekkers at the Port Moresby airport. Were you contacted to provide feedback to them?
No exit survey on our Kokoda Trail experience was carried out with us when both my daughter and myself left POM on 27/07/09. We trekked with group AK917 14/07/09 to 23/07/09
Volunteers and professional track builders’ are on the track digging steps at Owers Corner and Menari – that there are plans for wire bridges – and they are digging rubbish pits.
Outrageous and unnecessary
I cant tell you the extent of the feeling in the pit of my stomach when I landed at Kokoda airstrip in August 07. It was along the lines of “Why am I doing this? This is dangerous. Why am I risking my health and potentially my life?”. Those thoughts marred the first few days of my Kokoda experience. Yes, I was overweight, Yes, I was unprepared, No I did not train adequately.
However I did get a medical clearance before I left- and sadly my doctor didn’t blink an eye in signing it off. Maybe he saw something I didn’t? In saying that, I didn’t realise the risks myself until I landed at the airstrip. Something I don’t think is uncommon.
While I did manage to complete the trek, it was a huge physical struggle and an even bigger mental struggle. Looking back, I cant believe how much of a liability I could have been to Adventure Kokoda, the porters and guides, and even to myself. But for 15 minutes of my time to go to the doctor beforehand, and make sure that I didnt have a heart condition or respiratory problem or some other issue- well I wouldn’t have given that up. And when I was standing at Kokoda, I was thankful that I had bothered to do so before I trekked.
Why wouldnt you get a medical clearance?
I now have friends, who, every time they hear a trekker has died- they turn to me and say “oh i would never do Kokoda, the risks are too high, I would want a guarantee I would come home again”.
The sad reality is that Kokoda IS a risk you take- for injury- perhaps death. Medical clearances don’t guarantee that you wont injure yourself, or that you may die from an unknown condition, but they may just help save your life. It is very sad when a trekker does get a medical clearance, but the stress of the Trail brings up an undetected condition that ends their life. That may be unpreventable unless you sit at home and never attempt anything.
On that same end of the scale, one trekker from my group completed the trek trouble free (after firstly doing doing a stress test/ECG in his medical clearance, which showed he was all healthy and fit), however 4 months later had an operation to have a heart stent put in as was at high danger of having a heart attack. Lucky.
You cant blame trekking companies, or the Trail, or the KTA for the deaths. However, 1) the trekking company has a duty of care to you- and this does not just include insurance. 2) The KTA has a duty of care to ensure you are aware of and prepared for the trek conditions (just as a scuba diving company makes sure you are licensed and trained before they let you step off the boat, because even their insurance wouldn’t cover them if you didn’t have documentation to say you knew what you were doing!) and 3) You have a duty of care to yourself and your family. Dont you want to come home after such an amazing experience? Wouldn’t your family want to see you afterwards? Wouldn’t you love to tell your friends about it and encourage them to undertake a life changing experience themselves? Wouldn’t you like to get some value for money after spending so much ($$$ and time) in preparation?
For 15 minutes of your time to go to a doctor, and perhaps the cost to pay for the gap- well why wouldn’t you take steps to give yourself the best possible chance to coming home again? I wouldnt leave it until you get to the airstrip at Kokoda and get that feeling in the pit of your stomach like I did.
Perhaps Charlie, you could find doctors in each state that have trekked Kokoda before, who know what the conditions are like, and know what preparation you need. When someone puts their name down for a trek with you, you refer them to that doctor, who can also work with the trekkers own usual doctor in assessing whether they are fit and ready? And follow this up with a nominee from each state (perhaps who has trekked with you before) who can complete a moderately difficult walk with the applicant, and observe their level of fitness and make recommendations prior to the trek also? You, as a trekking company director, then have an educated basis and right to say “NO, we wont take you at this time, but heres what will need to happen so you’re not such a liability, because we want you to have a great experience and come home safely at the end of it, and we want to give you the best chance of that happening”.
Something the trekking companies can offer to ensure their duty of care is met. I would have loved that extra assurance before I got to the airfield and had to have the poor trek leader talk me into continuing every 10 minutes!
My wife and I finished the Trail yesterday with Chad guiding. We needed to helicopter out one member of the team on day 3, the cause is somewhat unknown but the truth was that he would have put his life in danger if the decision had not been made to get him out.
It is clear that there MUST be a licencing regime for companies guiding on the trail and that minimum standards must be adheared to if more death are to be avoided.
It is a difficult trek and people will still die as they do in any other extreme sport, but people are dying today who would not if the trail was better managed.
The minimum standards apply to both Compamies and Trekers.
Comanies must enfore stringent health checks for all trekers and must have sat comms, and a suitably qualified medical person with an extensive medical kit.
Trekers must declare all existing medical conditions to their doctors and the treking company and get a certificate following a stress test. They must also be better prepared than many of the trekerrs we saw on the trail. Companies must give much better guidance in the level of fitness and training necessary.
The only organisation in a position to enforce these rules is the Kokoda Track Authority and if they aren’t forced by the Australian Government to do so then the leadertship pf Ausaid, Dept of Foreign Affairs and ultimately the Australian Governemnt should be held accountable for any more deaths. Kevin Rudd has done the Trek and needs to put his authority behind making this safer for the thousands of Australians who walk the trail each year.
Charlie,
I trekked with AK in June/July 2006 at age 56 and did all the right things – medical, plenty of preparation, good gear, and got myself as fit as a Mallee bull – and still ran into bad trouble – dehydrated Day 1, through not drinking enough in the stifling humidity – and can’t recollect too much about days 2 and 3.
BUT Chad and Bernie kept a close eye on me to make sure things were not critical AND we had a doctor in our group who did the same. AND I knew that AK had the communications, manpower and organisation to get me out if things hadn’t improved – which is why I chose to tour with them, and not some cheaper but underprepared organisation. Had I not been able to secure that peace of mind, I would not have trekked.
People doing the Track need to understand a) it’s not a gentle stroll, but a brutal mental and physical challenge (in our group, everyone I talked to admitted to at least one “REAL BAD DAY” on the Track); b) it’s in a Third World country and if things go wrong assistance is not guaranteed; so c) don’t go with unprepared cowboys, because you can bet everything will NOT be all right on the day!
Moreover, as the many comments have indicated, if the Kokoda Track Authority really is an authority, it should have the power to insist on medical clearances; to license only tour operators who meet strict standards of care for the trekkers they take; and to liase meaningfully with all stakeholders (especially the villagers) so that consensus emerges about what development (if any) should take place re the Track.
Nothing will remove all the risks attendant on trekking Kokoda, BUT it is only common sense to insist on measures which anticipate foreseeable problems and dangers and seek to minimise their impact. So KTA – off your arse and do it !
Regards,
Derek Cameron.
Charlie, All
Well by the time I got to go through this and all responses, we have most unfortunately, another death and this time very close to home, given it is AK. Indeed I believe my brother John is the trek leader and I know full well his deep experience. Obviously all our condolences go to all the families.
I believe the comments have covered the sentiments well, particularly the need for medical clearance. There can never be a guarantee for anyone – that is the nature of the track – but the risk can certainly be minimised if every trekker undertakes the appropriate medical clearance, ( for anyone with a potential heart condition that would include full ECG and stress test). In my view the appropriate medical clearnace should be a requirement before anyone commences a trek. This is the duty of care both of the KTA and/or the tour operator.
I also was interested in Natalie’s comments re RFDS – I think definitely worth exploring. It represents an avenue to address a situation in advance of an evacuation, and may improve treatment on what is already undertaken where a life threatening situation arises. Perhaps something for Scott to pass on to Garrett for consideration?
These steps won’t eliminate risk, but they will help trekkers to be prepared, and to have confidence that their well being can be optimised in the event something goes wrong. I have no doubt that AK has set the standards on care for trekkers, and I am sure with or without support of Govts or statutory bodies, will cotinue to seek new advances to maximise safety and give future trekkers the confidence to take on the challnege for all the right reasons.
I’ve just heard you on the radio telling anyone who would listen how there should be mandatory medical clearances for all trekkers on the Kokoda Track. If you so believe this, why didn’t you do it?
here you go Sue-
http://www.abc.net.au/news/stories/2009/10/05/2704507.htm?section=australia
We did. We have required mandatory medical clearances for all people who have trekked with us over the past 18 years. Mr Brunskill first applied to trek with us last year and provided us with a Medical Clearance Certificate. He later postponed his trek to this week and provided us with a current Medical Clearance Certificate.
Our Medical Clearance Certificate is comprehensive and was updated by Dr Sean Rothwell of Adventure Medicine who trekked with us a couple of years ago.
Our company, Adventure Kokoda, has led more than 4,000 trekkers across the Kokoda Trail over the past 18 years and we are proud of our safety record.
I believe it should be mandatory for all people who apply for a trek permit to cross the Owen Stanley Ranges via the Kokoda Trail to submit a Medcical Clearance Certificate to the Kokoda Track Authority when applying for a trek permit.
I would be interested to know your views Sue – do you think they should be mandatory?
After reading all the above comments and especailly yours Charlie I felt a need to write a comment because if you have walked the trail it conjures up a great emotion witbin oneself . Having walked it in April this year from Owners Corner to Kokoda with Adventure Kokoda it was an extraodinary experience and to finish it was an emotional moment. I trained for 8 months with my friends who came with me. Age 56 yrs my first big trek.
There were many moments in time especially on Brigade Hill where Simon conducted a service that was very emotional. Then to walk down off Brigade Hill and Stand looking over Efogi yes feeling quite exhausted but overawed thinking I am really here.
We passed the place where sadly a lady had died only the day before her gaiter hung over a walking stick at the spot. Yes it was a sobering moment.
However sometimes there are acts of god and we do not have any control over that – nor should we try to.
That is leave the track alone. It belongs not to us, the trekkers, we are priviledged to walk it in someone else’s country – yes it represents our brave Australian soldiers who changed the course of history so hence we are able to walk it peacefully and remember them. Close to what it was like for them.
Having accreditated companies is an absolute as Adventure Kokdoa ticked all the boxes for me – especially in learning more about the history of Kokoda.
I found it physically hard and felt I should have put in more training! Even though I read all the pre-information that was fantastic. Yes my medical gave me the all clear and I was glad to know that. It should be absolute for anyone taking on the trek. I still heeded the good advice of our group leaders in taking a sacket of gastrolyte at night as well as the staminade during the day. It made the difference to how I felt as I did not realise the humidity would be so huge and being of Celtic background maybe made me feel it that much more.
The group I was in was mixed but looked out for each other and this was an important aspect as mentally you were tested.
The porters are also the integral part of the trek and should be consulted as well as the trekkers and companies such as Adventure Kokoda that have the years of experience, especially Charlie Lynn.
As I opened the computer today I looked at my screen saver of myself and my porter Ian walking across Myola and felt great emotion and was visualising those many moments on the trail.That is how the experience of Kokoda leaves you full of much emotion of what you have seen and achieved in all its rawness. I hope many more Australians get the same opportunity
Rest peacefully all those who did not get the opportunity to complete the experience you are not forgotten.
As I am sure we will reach some middle ground here especially with people like you Charlie to keep speaking for what you believe the trail represents.
All too sad the events unfolding, leave the track as it is for people to experience as it was during the time our fore fathers faught there.
Condolences to the families of the tragic death within the Adventure Kokoda family. It must be heart wrenching for them, Charlie and most of all John- I have met this man and he is an inspirational person. Mandatory medical clearences are a must, anything to save heartache for all involved. The testing was simple, and if followed the fitness regieme was there to help make the experience a little less challenging.
We all had hard days, but if you listened to the experienced guides and did as required and hydrated when told, you were fine. Not once did I feel like I was alone- I trekked with the lovely lady Anna who commented above and we all looked out for each other, but I thought Simon and Mel always knew how we were feeling and guaged our day well.
As for surveys- the only one I filled out was for Adventure Kokoda – not once were we approached in PNG to fill one out for KTA. I applaude that finally some continuity will occur for trekking companies who use the track- but have doubts that it may be more of a money spinner for the authority – money that may not be used in the way we as trekkers would like to see it be used. I only hope this all gets sorted out so people are not frightened off from the best experience of their lives
It is quite ironic that this post was written just a few days prior to the death of an Adventure Kokoda trekker.
And how did Adventure Kokoda respond to this tragedy? By focusing on covering their ass, using the media attention to promote Adventure Kokoda as being a superior tour company, and blaming the dead man for not being fit enough. The Herald Sun in ‘Aussies walk into danger’ 06 Oct 09 stated “At Adventure Kokoda we have mandatory health checks and three or four other credible operators require health checks, but too many don’t,” Mr Lynn said…..”Mr Lynn warned Australians to avoid cheap tour operators because they might not be properly equipped.” Multiple newspapers have also quoted Mr Lynn attacking the dead man’s preparation including the Brisbane Times 05 Oct 09 who quoted Charlie Lynn as saying “But he could not manage the first hour, the easy part. That doesn’t say to me that his fitness preparation was any good. He wasn’t physically prepared.” in the article ‘Kokoda Track kills within an hour’.
This seems incredibly disrespectful to the poor man who has died and his family.
There are any number of medical reasons that the man may have struggled within that first hour not related to his fitness but which may have made him look like he was unfit. He could have been suffering from reduced cardiac output or respiratory perfusion/ventilation mismatch (due to PE) – both of which could be caused by complications secondary to dehydration. Both these conditions could present with shortness of breath, fast heart rate and possibly sweating. These are purely hypotheticals but my point is it was far too premature for Adventure Kokoda to start publically criticizing and blaming the poor man who had died and was unable to defend himself.
As it turns out the family have asserted that Mr Phillip Brunskill’s preparation was adequate, with 10 months of training involving gym work and regular pack marches.
It is a shame that Adventure Kokoda have not publicly acted with more compassion in this terrible set of circumstances.
My heartfelt and deepest sympathies go out to the family :((
I have been an advocate of mandatory medical clearances for people wanting to trek Kokoda for many years – and will continue to do so.
Phillip’s death was tragic and it was not easy to break the sad news to his family. I will not reveal the details of the conversation I had with his partner but it was my strong impression that neither she nor their sons wanted Phillip to trek Kokoda at this time.
I am sorry that you interpreted my remarks the way you have but I can appreciate where you are coming from in view of your own recent experience with Kokoda.
I met Phillip at our recent Kokoda reunion dinner and was impressed with his passion for the history of the campaign and his search for the link with his uncle who was shot down over New Guinea during the war. He was excited at the prospect of going onto Popondetta to search for a plane at the end of his trek.
I accept the fact that there may have been a medical condition that was not detected during Phillips medical examination which, as you know, is very comprehensive. I also appreciate your hypotheticals but I would prefer to wait for the Coroner’s report to see if this was the case.
I appreciate the issue is sensitive but I can only report on the facts I have at hand when answering calls to the media. In this case I was advised by his trek leader, Chad Sherrin, that he observed Phillip during the descent from Owers Corner to the Goldie River and during the short climb to the old Uberi village campsite. At this point he advised Phillip that he did not believe he was physically capable of completing the trek and instructed that he return to Owers Corner where he would arrange to have a vehicle waiting for him.
According to Chad, Phillip agreed with both his assessment and his instruction.
Chad then arranged for his PNG Head Guide, Medic and Phillip’s personal carrier to escort him back to Owers Corner.
I fully support Chad’s decision and the plan he made for Phillip’s evacuation. His tragic death has had a profound impact on Jill and I, Chad, our other trek leaders, the members of his trek group and our PNG trek guides who were with him at the time.
I am sure you will appreciate the media’s interest in Kokoda is fairly intense in view of the fact that four trekkers have died on the trail this year. They expect an immediate response and will not accept evasive answers or a refusal to comment.
It has been a difficult time but, as I stated earlier, I could only deal with the facts I had at the time during the intense barrage of media calls in the 24 hours following Phillip’s tragic death.
I certainly did not mean to be disrespectful and I’m sure the family will appreciate your condolences.
I’m deeply saddened by the death of Mr Pillip Brunskill and also by the loss of trekkers and locals along the track over the recent years. I did plan to add to this blog some of my observations of the areas with room for improvement that I’ve been thinking about, but I think I’ll wait for a more opportune time. I fully support Charlie and emphasize that with the three treks I have completed I couldn’t have asked for more professional leaders than those of AK.
David Sherry.
Charlie,
I trekked with AK in June/July 2006 at age 56 and did all the right things – medical, plenty of preparation, good gear, and got myself as fit as a Mallee bull – and still ran into bad trouble – dehydrated Day 1, through not drinking enough in the stifling humidity – and can’t recollect too much about days 2 and 3.
BUT Chad and Bernie kept a close eye on me to make sure things were not critical AND we had a doctor in our group who did the same. AND I knew that AK had the communications, manpower and organisation to get me out if things hadn’t improved – which is why I chose to tour with them, and not some cheaper but underprepared organisation. Had I not been able to secure that peace of mind, I would not have trekked.
People doing the Track need to understand a) it’s not a gentle stroll, but a brutal mental and physical challenge (in our group, everyone I talked to admitted to at least one “REAL BAD DAY” on the Track); b) it’s in a Third World country and if things go wrong assistance is not guaranteed; so c) don’t go with unprepared cowboys, because you can bet everything will NOT be all right on the day!
Moreover, as the many comments have indicated, if the Kokoda Track Authority really is an authority, it should have the power to insist on medical clearances; to license only tour operators who meet strict standards of care for the trekkers they take; and to liase meaningfully with all stakeholders (especially the villagers) so that consensus emerges about what development (if any) should take place re the Track.
Nothing will remove all the risks attendant on trekking Kokoda, BUT it is only common sense to insist on measures which anticipate foreseeable problems and dangers and seek to minimise their impact. So KTA – off your arse and do it !
Regards,
Derek Cameron.