(A study conducted by Adventure Kokoda and provided to the Australian Government at no cost to the taxpayer)
Scope
Our study was limited to the collective experience of eight trek leaders with more than 130 treks across the Kokoda Trail over an 18 year period, between them. Two of these trek leaders have lived in PNG for extended periods and are fluent in Tok Pisin.
Limitations of Study
We did not engage highly paid consultants unfamiliar with Melanesian culture, the military aspects of the Kokoda campaign, or the Kokoda Trail itself.
The report is a compilation of views from trek leaders in constant contact with Koiari and Orokaiva villagers along the Kokoda Trail – it therefore a jargon and acronym free zone.
Cost
The report itself is the first of a series of complimentary reports provided by Kokoda Trek Operators to the Australian Government.
We would ask that the A$50,000 we have saved the Australian taxpayer be donated towards the cost of engaging an agricultural scientist experienced in Malanesian culture in general, and Koiari and Orokaiva customs in particular, and who is fluent in both Tok Pisin and Motu, for a period of six months beginning on 1 July 2009.
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to explore ways of assisting villagers who live along the Kokoda Trail to derive additional benefits from groups who trek between Owers Corner.
Academics refer to this type of activity as ‘capacity building’. Others refer to it as ‘value-adding’. Villagers call it ‘helpem mek moni’.
Immediate Short Term Opportunities
1. Campsites
At the moment trek operators pay K20 per night for each trekker and K5 for each guide and carrier.
Some simple suggestions to double Kokoda Trail campsite income include:
• Organise a group of young people from the village to meet the trek group when they arrive in the village and offer to wash and dry their clothes for them overnight for K10 per trekker (washing involves rinsing the sweat out of clothes, jocks and socks – no soap – and hanging them in their hut overnight to dry).
• Prepare afternoon tea for the trek group when they arrive at the village. Charge K10 for a cup of freshly brewed PNG coffee and two scones – baked in a drum oven – with jam.
• Offer a plate of fresh fruit with a couple of slices of cucumber and salt for K5 per trekker.
This basic service will effectively double their income and generate more than K1 million per year for villagers based on 2008 trekking numbers. It is not rocket science!
2. Village Rest Areas
Fresh fruit stalls can be established in each village. ‘Trekker plates’ containing fresh fruit salad and is prepared before the trekkers arrive and are offered for K5 each – or K7.50 with condensed milk. If only half the trekker purchased one bowl of fruit per day (a very conservative estimate) the annual income for villages would increase by K150,000.
3. Fresh Bread/Toast
Simple drum ovens can be used to bake bread for sandwiches or toast. Spread with long-life butter and have peanut butter, vegemite, cheese, etc available and trekkers will pay at least K10 per day – another half-a-million kina earned.
4. Other opportunities for additional income include:
• payments for traditional village dance groups and ‘sing-sings’;
• visits to village museums;
• photo’s with traditional dance groups;
• sale of carved ‘trekking poles’
• sale of billum bags containing the village name
Long Term OpportuniesEstablish a ‘Village Co-operative’ in each village. This co-op would own and operate a trade store that will provide food and supplies to campsites which are located nearby in discreet areas.
Accredited campsite owners could then be engaged to provide two meals per day for trekkers staying overnight.
This will require the introduction of English potatoes on the southern side of the Owen Stanley Ranges and storage facilities for canned food, cereals, spreads, etc.
A ‘Village Co-operative Trade Store’ is a bulk supply store for nearby campsites. This will require training in ordering, accounting, stock control, storage and distribution. The trade store and all nearby campsites to be equipped with radios/digicell mobile phones with a rear link to Port Moresby suppliers and airlines.
Campsite owners would be advised by the KTA of the trek itinerary of all trekkers on the Trail. The KTA will only issue trek permits to accredited trek operators who would agree to stick to their assigned itinerary and stay at the campsites that are pre-booked when they pay their trek fee and submit their preferred trek itinerary.
Campsite owners who do not provide the meals that are ordered by trek operators risk losing their accreditation. A reserve stock of dehydrated rations would be maintained at the village trade store for contingencies.
Experience warns us that tt is not unusual to arrive in a village and find that people are missing despite having an agreement to meet with them. They might be at a funeral in a neighbouring village off the track (a common occurrence) or ‘away in the gaden’!
To make this happen the Australian Government needs to declare each village a ‘consultant free zone’ and engage an agricultural scientist experienced in Malanesian culture in general , and Koiari and Orokaiva customs in particular, and who is fluent in both Tok Pisin and Motu, for a period of 12 months beginning in January 2010.
The A$100,000 saved in this longer term report should be directed towards training Village Co-operative Trade Store’ manager and staff training and development in all aspects of stock ordering, control, accounting and distribution. It should also provide for the training of campsite managers and cooks.
Charlie,
There has not been one trekker (on treks that I have accompanied) in the last12 months who hasn’t wanted a carved Trekking pole made for them by the boys.
Although we have tried to keep the price at $30 Kina, msot trekkers do deals up to $50 Kina without blinking an eye.
While trekking it is difficult to organize without disrupting the porters and on most occasions causing them to spend many hours when they should be sleeping/resting doing carving.
Not all are as good carvers as some. As example Victor from Kovello(a Sepic man) is a master carver.
One suggestion is that Kovello (at the Kokoda end) and Clearwater (Imita Base) at the Owers end could have quality carved poles avaiable for Trekker Selection and Payment close to the end of their particular trek.(That way neither porters nor trekkers would have to cary them any further than necessary. This could be advertised to and through Trek operators.
If this was to be the case -say 5000 Quality Trekker Poles being sold at $50 kina per pole is $250,000 Kina to two villages. Everyone wins (and the bush along the trails does not get randomly hacked down as well-even the greenies win!!!)
Ron Beattie
Hi Ron,
I agree – trekkers who acquire a stick at the start of the trek get ’emotionally involved’ with their pole after a couple of days. by the end of the trek it is the most important item in their trek inventory.
At the other end of the scale is the trekker who uses trekking poles (the most effecitive tool for stability) but who appreciate the symbolism of a carved stick as a memento.
Either way they will sell as many as they can carve.
Charlie
I think the sale of carved stick poles towards the end of one’s treck is a fabulous idea. I used standard store-bought trecking poles but would loved to have been able to purchase a carved stick pole as a memento. I would also have paid K10 to have clothes washed and dried each night, and the thought of a cup of brewed coffee, scones and jam and/or fresh bread or toast …. WOW! Knowing in advance that clothes could be washed and dried each night would cut down on the amount of clothes taken on the trek and the weight of the pack the porter carried – surely a win win situation.
Hi Christine,
Thank you for your feedback. I have discussed your suggestions with out trek leaders and they agree with you – our PNG Carriers would also agree with any initiative that lightens their load. I’m am not sure if the environmental boffins in Canberra will be able to grasp such basic commonsense suggestions from trekkers with practical experience but we can only try.
I agree, a carved stick would be brilliant! I wish i had the opportunity to purcahse one when i did the trail! And i would happily pay up to 80 kina as that is really only $40 australian, which in the scheme of things is not a lot at all and i know its going to a good cause.
I would also happily buy a billum bag from the track. At the time i went i couldnt find any that i liked so i ended up buying one at the markets in port morseby. However one from the track with a village’s name on it would be great.
Re the clothes – brilliant idea!
Re the fruit salad, good idea but addmittedly i personally wouldnt get it as i prefer to buy the fruit whole etc / still in its skin etc so i can take in my pack with me and eat as i go. I did this quite a few times along the track, buying boiled eggs, passionfruit, sugar bananas etc. That was great and at only 2 kina or something ridiculous it was really really good and kept me going throughout the day
The toast and brekkie idea i thought was great. After a few days of the same brekkie food it does sound really nice to have some fresh toast and jam – YUM!
Good luck with the study and happy to do any surveys or anything else that may help.
best regards
Luisa Brown, Sydney
Hi Luisa,
A good idea about the fruit – if it is still in ‘nature’s wrapping’ it makes it more hygenic. Once they know what trekkers like they will prepare accordingly.
Boiled eggs are also popular but there are not enough chooks to meet demand at the moment – this is certainly worth exploring though – eggs on toast for breakfast would be very popular – and it means we would not have to carry as much food!
A carved trekking pole seems to be the most popular memento amongst trekkers.
I would love to purchase a carved trekking pole and the other suggestions I would certainly pay for….
Thanks Jan – I think that most trekkers would increase their purchases along the track if they were aware of the options they have before they begin their trek.
Hi Charlie,
Having recently returned from an Anzac Day trek, I was amaazed at the commercial opportunities available to villagers that are not applied today.
It is a difficult balance. One of the attractions of Kokoda is the tough endurance and physical hardship of the trek. On the other hand, “luxuries” to be supplied by villagers would be most welcome by trekkers at the end of a long day trekking.
Hot showers at 10k each are a no brainer!.
Good quality food and good hot coffee- particularly in combination with the end of the days trekking and someone taking clothes away to wash and dry would be a winner. The few Kena to indulge in these luxuries would be minimal for the trekker and the benefit to trekkers fantastic.
If a village had sit down toilets, I am sure trekkers would pay some extra amount per night for the “service”. Small issues but could be lots of $$’s to the locals.
Massage of sore spots at the end of the day would be taken advantage of. $10 -$50 to have sore spots massaged would be a minimal amount to pay for the benefit to the trekker. It may even be the difference in trekkers finishing the trail.
The future of tourism on the Kokoda Track must be based on the experience being fantastic but if it was a little easier or some small luxuries available, then I am sure more tourists would consider the trek, hence the sustainability.
Hope my comments are helpful.
Regards
Peter Clifford
Peter,
Hot showers would certainly be a ‘no-brainer’ as you say. One of the priority tasks of the Kokoda Track Authority should be the accreditation of campsites along the track. Landowners who provided hygenic and discreet ablution facilities – which included hot showers – could charge an extra K10 per trekker for example. These site would be developed in partnership with individual landowners. Part of the development program for proper campsite development would include basic management training – maintaining records, hygiene maintenance, siting of toilets, etc. I cannot understand why nothing has happened in this regard over the past 15 months.
Foot massages and treatment would also be popular – villagers have a lot of knowledge in this area as they have to treat themselves. It would not take much training for them to set up a clinic in the village and stock it with some Goanna oil, Tea Tree oil, etc. Great idea Pete.
Hi Charlie,
Thank you the opportunity to comment. The bilum bags and carved walking pole I bought on the track as gifts for my children were great value, and are treasured by them. I too would gladly have paid for clothes washing or coffee with scones on the day. I think you have to have walked the track to understand how wonderful that would be!
Mike,
Unfortunately most of those responsible for the important decisions on Kokoda have not trekked it – so they take advice from consultants who have visited by aircraft or who have trekked all or part of it once or twice. They therefore do not have a ‘feel’ for the cameraderie that develops between trekkers, their PNG guides and carriers, and the villagers. This aspect of trekking is very difficult for a Canberra based boffin to understand.
Hi Charlie,
I agree with your comments regarding that there are more ways to help out the villagers and landowners, also the suggestions that were mentioned are valid ones that would also add to the experience for the trekkers and local community.
My big beef with the situation is why aren’t the Australian and Papua Governments working together to preserve and manage this unique piece of history that we both share in. This “piece” of land is hallowed ground, it was where a generation of young stood fast and forged this country. You think of ANZAC Cove, The Anzacs and Gallipoli, you think of Tobruk, The Rats, you think of Bradman, Ashes and the MCG, all pieces of hallowed ground all places where the Australian Spirit shone on the world stage.
Kokoda is so much more as is not only do you visualize the campiagns, battlegrounds and the sense of being where heores walked, but you feel their hardships, mateships and courage in a small way. Sometimes on the Trek I felt their pain except I was not getting hunted by lead,steel and a bayonet with guts behind it.
I have travelled to parts of Europe and walked some famous battlefields, not Australian battlefields but sites that major combat took place in various wars throughout history. They are all amazing, special places that inspire visitors and are under strict control by local authority and government. They attract all forms of wealth for the area and above all are shrines to the brave who fought there. Kokoda is no different in that aspect. It is more than many sites because you walk the campaign and battlefields as they did, a very unique experience.
The local people are just as important to the trekker now as they were in 1942 to the digger. They are a large part of the whole Kokoda Chapter and they should be able to share in what Kokoda brings to Papua. I am no polly or high flier but surely heads can come together to keep this part of our heritage safe and prosperous for all generations of Australians and Papauns to enjoy and reflect.
Keep up your fight Charlie.
Mark,
According to figures recently released by the Kokoda Track Authority more than 21,266 people have trekked across the Kokoda Trail since 2001. This has provided a windfall income of around $10.5 million in GST – and a windfall for airlines, hotels, local transport, camping gear and food suppliers, the Kokoda Track Authority and landowners.
Unfortunately this has not translated into benefits for Koiari and Orokaive villagers along the track because of a lack of empathy at government level.
Suggestions for developing a sustainable tourist economy:
I would like to be able to purchase different CDs of music from each of the villages along the way. Each village has a unique voice and could sing different songs specific to their community. They could also do their own artwork for the cover.
They could also offer singing lessons for a donation.
It would be great to buy artwork direct from the artisans anything from jewellery/beads, carvings, masks, headdresses all made from the area. Not too big so they can carry it in their backpacks or extra charge for shipment?
Postcards of each village would be good to buy.
I would be interested in a more shamanic experience with the local medicine men or women – this could be developed if they were interested. In the Amazon this is a developing niche market. Again perhaps rites of passage experiences where you pay to have a ceremony for marriage, birth, death of a loved one, coming of age etc?
It would be great to be able to purchase a book documenting the military experience and the different villagers’ involvement in the fight against the Japanese, their support of the Australian soldiers – with proceeds going back to maintaining the track etc Again this could be sold at the end of the trek.
I would be interested in trying the locals food not and English breakfast etc we need to help sustain their own unique identity not bring in western ideas – we need to celebrate what makes them different rather than impose an expectation of jam and cream. Personally I would like to try their own recipes not western food like on the Annapurna Trek. So perhaps a mix of both local and western food?
Rebecca,
Great to hear from you after all this time and thank you for your ideas. I agree with idea of a CD – I think it would be a popular item amongst trekkers.
The Koiari and Orokavia villagers along the way only seem to make bilum bags – we are currently trying to get them to include the name of their village in the design of the bag but it is a slow process. If it cannot be identified with the track then trekkers tend to wait until they get back to Port Moresby to buy one.
They are not woodcarvers but the Orokaiva have some great tapa cloth with traditional markings.
Some of the ladies have married men from the Sepik region and they are great woodcarvers – hence the recent popularity of carved trekking poles.
I’m not sure about shamanic experiences for trekkers – I’m not sure our guides and carriers would be comfortable with this sort of experience at this stage. However re-enactiments of fuzzy-wuzzy angels stretcher bearers (which they have done on one occassion before) would be a good idea. Your suggestion for ‘rites of passage’ briefings on births, initiation ceremonies, bride price and funeral rites would be an interesting cultural initiative.
Lots to work on!
I would up the ask each of our trekkers to bring around K200 (A$100) to purchase fresh fruit and veg, donate to ‘sing-sing’ groups, etc. over the 10 days they spend of the track.
Pay each campsite owner K25 per trekker and K10 per guide/carrier.
Clean clothes (washed and dried) a nominal sum.
Massarge on feet for the unprepared a nominal fee.
The ability to have a hot shower for the softies a nominal fee.
Toilet facilities for ladies more comfortable for their style a nominal fee.
Different beverages coffee, tea, even juices again a nominal fee.
Food supplies cakes, fruit, dumplings etc that are traditional food a nominal fee.
Any national art effect depicting the village and or maker, a nominal fee.
Photographs givenb certain area settings and people a noiminal fee.
Engraved walking poles a nominal fee.
Sporting equipment and foort strips supplied.
I believe the list could be extensive given the opportunies that could be presesnted but it again is up to the treker to buy. If everyone bought then sustainabiulity would be evident.
Cheers
Rick
Thanks Charlie,
I would spend money on all of the suggestions made so far. I don’t think a cold beer at every stop would enhnace the track experience so please leave that one out (although at times I would have killed for one!). The only item I see missing is health related. There must be medications and sundry health items these villages need and use daily. What items could all trekkers take with them and donate to a central pool at one point or along the way?
Better toilets and showers would certainly be a winner.
Hi Charlie
You ask a simple question – here in Australia there is always some animosity towards companies that come into Australia, sell products to Australians and take the profits and know how back overseas. If we take this approach for the Trail then we can’t expect the tribespeople from thinking in any other way. If we are coming into their country, being welcomed in and experiencing their hospitality, but then coming back home without leaving behind anything of benefit then you can’t help but feel that we are shortchanging our hosts a little. All of the items you mentioned would undoubtably be welcomed by trekkers – I am walking the Trail next month but would very much appreciate being able to purchase a carved trekking pole, plus some tea and scones at the end of each day.
You have asked a specific question but the real issue here is the approach to the management of the Kokoda Trail. It appears that, instead of asking the accredited operators who have the experience, the Government looks like they are after the cute, consultant answer (I am a former management consultant so I have experience in this area). That said, the first job of a good consultant is to survey the opinions of those with greater knowledge and if this isn’t being done then the report will have no value. It seems that you could probably sit down with these guys and write their report for them. If they then wanted to put it into consultant jargon and present it to the Government then this is fine – so long as everyone is aware that we are paying $50,000 for some nice glossy photos and a bunch of words.
To move forward, what connections to you have in the Government ? Maybe contacting them and telling them what is really going on is the key.
Charlie,
I understand your concern for the lack of financial gain by the villages along the Kokoda Trail. I walked with you in 2007 so have an idea of what your vision is for them. I was at Efogi when you opened the Comunity Market House.
However I find some of the ideas being suggested here as fanciful. We were able to buy some basis food and cans of soft drink at a few villages and I fully support this. I feel the expectation of hot showers, laundry and other services will downgrade the trek to just another “trek to be done”.
The next suggestions will be aircraft/helicopter flights into villages for overnight stays or one or two day walks to increase the overcrowding at the more ‘sacred areas’ such as Brigade Hill and Isurava and 5 star hotels wanting to set up to cater for the well heeled ‘trekkers’.
Trekkers wanting that sorts of walks can go to New Zealand, Nepal, Peru or the Tasmanian Overland Track.
I think trekking the Kokoda Trail is about remembering and honouring the Australian soldiers, both militia and AIF, who fought there with the assistance of the local fuzzie wuzzies. In all the accounts I have read I have not found any references to creature comforts, only mud, sweat, rain, suffering and death. As a trekker I think we should experience all these, with exception of the last.
By all means we should ensure the local villagers do not miss out on their share of the funds paid by trekkers. I support basic food items, mementos such as the bilums and trekking poles but I think over commercialisation of the trail could in the long run be just as devastating for the comunities as mining or forestry. Once the uniqeness of the area is lost it is gone forever.
I think trekking the Kokoda Trail should be a hard physical experience, just the same as it was for the diggers. Anything less degrades their memory. I found the trek one of the hardest physical things I have ever done, but I wouldn’t have missed it for the world and would love to do it again.
We need to find a balance that keeps the trek unique but also ensures the villages along the way get a financial benefit without ruining the experience by too much commercialisation, othewise it will just become another tourist destination.
Cheers,
Damian
Hi Charlie,
The carved poles and bags are a fantastic idea, I struggled to find a nice bag in Morsby- I didnt want to carry all the way, but if they were at the end of the trek it would be fantastic. Maybe an idea could be show the AK trekers some ideas on the website and they can pre-order their pole or bag with names etc on it and pick it up at the end, giving them a chance to have the money with them and also the locals time to get them ready for us.
As a group we infact donated all our medical left overs at Kokoda Hospital and I personally gave my porter my medical kit to take back to his community
I think the coffee would have been a winner- after buying some in Morsby to bring home it is the best coffee in the world. beats the hell out of international roast special blend!!!
Also our group suggested that a CD pf our porters singing would be a fantastic souviner, their music will life with us forever, it was soothing and so sincere.
I also like the idea of postcards- that is one thing I could not find anywhere, and I also like to put them with our photos.
Personally we bought fruit and food items at every village that offered too us, and were satisfied with the way that it was offered to us, fresh and still in its skin
I think that there are a lot of ideas that could be put forward, but remember the experience many people are looking for and that we need to remember we are in the jungle and can do without some luxeries from home.
G’day Charlie,
Having walked with your mob June/July last year I have had time to reflect. Turning it around a little: ask not what the locals can do for the trekkers; rather, ask what we can do for the locals! (apologies to JFK). For example; We still haven’t got the funds to send the stack of books many trekkers have collected to the villages/schools along the track. Our collection is still waiting. Perhaps there is a possibility to set up a foundation to support the track villagers and I am sure if that was done that the response from trekkers would be excellent. The foundation could seek tax exemption under the Act in terms of humanitarian aid. The foundation could then fund “their” needs, their priorities being established by people who know and understand their circumstances and not some mincing bureaucrat in Canberra. This is do-able! Yes, sticks are good but small return.
Charlie
having the local vilages providing basic servicess of the sort you mentioned in your blog would certainly be appreciated by most trekers. It will lead to villagers earn much needed income which is of course hugely important. However, there is a danger of overcommercialisation and the trek losing much of its uniqueness and challenge if things become too comfortable for trekers. I think Damien Griffitn in his reply has expressed these views most eloquently.
Cheers.
Hi Charlie, I trekked with Chad Sherrin in May 2008, it was a fantastic experience. I think the food offerings by the villagers was quite adequate, some better that others, however, I do not think that changing the condition of the track or supplying more of what may be considered luxuries would be a good idea because, as it has been mentioned many times, it would greatly detract from the experience. I do believe that walking poles at the beginning would be a good idea and certainly improve the quality, I had one carved but am very dissapointed, many others were very good. I paid 15k for mine and thouight that it was too much for what I got, some trekkers actually rejected theirs which was very dissapointing for them.
Dry clean clothes of a morning would have been great,reasable toilets and change rooms would also have been great especially for the girls on the trek.I would have paid anything for the service of them.I would like to have seen some form of power generation from either wind,solar or water in the villages,this would enable them to communicate with the outside world and provide many services that we take for granted.
Charlie,
I feel all the suggestions have merit, particularly the bilum bags and the poles and these two items would be a strong revenue earner. The scones seem to have support but I am not sure if they are the right thing for the trek. Better food and fruit at the village level would be very welcome. Some of the privations of the trek are a good part of the overall experience and there is no need to make it too soft!
Charlie
I feel what should not be forgotten is it is a challenge. The idea is to rough it, is it not? Give people something to sit on when they go to the toilet. But change rooms, hot showers, I feel goes to far.
Dry clean cloths is a nice touch, but lets not see them fighting for the work. I believe it should be all pre-arranged.
I didn’t lose any weight because the food was too good, I see no need for change (yes the idea of coffee is enticing, but does that not make the first cup when you get back that little bit nicer). Although fresh fruit never goes astray. Coke should not be seen or any other commercial product for that matter.
I personally do not want to see each village as a trading post, I would rather donate money to the village not to change. Lets not corrupt them with our capitalist ideals (no I’m not a socialist, I just like seeing locals for who they are), help them develop better ways to grow fruit and veg, hygiene, and stay true to their culture. Help them see that is one of the reason people do the track.
Thanks for the chance to comment.
Gday Charlie , I trekked Aug – Sept ’06 & not a day goes by without thinking about what an incredible experience it was . Given the opportunity I would have taken my “trekking pole ” home & I would have happily paid to do so with or without carving . Having more fruit etc available to purchase in the villages would be handy so all members of the group could have the opportunity to buy some would be great . the tail enders usually missed out . No I wouldn’t want my jocks & socks washed & dried at the end of everyday by someone other than me , but I’m sure there would be lots who would , but for me having those sorts of facilities available would defeat the purpose of walking the track .
Thanks & good luck
Charlie, my initial ” helping ” idea has already been suggested in some of the replys, and I see it as a simple and popular income earner. I will be doing the trek in August and would love to bring some genuine, local music home [ cd’s ] I’m sure it would be beautiful – some church singing also ? I don’t think this would be a difficult exersise to organise and I would be surprised if most trekers did not buy at least one CD. Yes, local art work on the covers – great idea. I intend buying a Kokoda walking stick.
Dear Charlie,
Sit-down toilets would be great and of course we’d be happy to pay. I’m not sure whether scones and jam and coffee would fit in. Some days we were doing it tough in parts and rum not coffee was the go. Maybe at the end of the day if there was no rain. Extra fruit (user pays) would be good. Our clothes were wet and dirty most of the time, so I can’t see the point in having them washed and dried.
If merchandise were available for purchase and collection at the end of the trek, to avoid loading up ourselves or our porters on the track, the sellers would be knocked over in the rush to buy.
Hi Charlie. I conquered the trail in April 2006. One thing that will forever stick in my mind, and that I believe captures the spirit of Kokoda, but that I couldn’t bring home with me, was the incredible voices of the local villagers, and the choir of carriers that sang for us at Isurava, and the beautiful sound of the children singing for us late at night. I’ve said to my good friend John Nalder in the past, if you could somehow take a sound recording crew with you on a trek, and made a CD of the “Songs of Kokoda,”, I think you would be hard pressed to find a trekker who wouldn’t want a copy, and probably be happy to pay $40-50 Aus for the privilage.
As for suggestions from others, I think many of them are brilliant, but I guess I would be dissappointed if too many of the ‘hardships’ of the journey were replaced. For example, at the time I think I would have paid $100 for a hot shower, probably more, but looking back, an icy cold bathe in the river every night was part of the experience and something I’m proud to say I endured for 10 nights! And while scones and jam with the freshly brewed coffee would be lovely, I can get that at home. I’d much rather something that the locals would traditionally bake for their families. Just some of my thoughts…… I guess I just don’t want us trekkers to turn the journey into what we want it to be rather than what it is (if that makes sense!)
Cheers,
Wendy
Would you pay to have your clothes, socks, underwear washed and dried each day? YES
Would you pay for fresh coffee and scones? YES
What else would you like to be able to buy along the track? Would have loved a neck and shoulder, or foot, massage every now and then! A service to quietly deal with any whingers would be popular too.
What other ideas can you help us to help them with? In all cases the services should be made available but not forced down the throat of the trekkers. There would be nothing worse than arriving at the villages and having goods and services thrust upon you.
Hi Charlie,
The establishment of co-op stores at strategic villages along the track could work if managed properly. This would lessen the burden on the porters and possibly do away with an air resup half way along the way. Can walking poles be allowed into Oz due to our quarintine laws? As for clean, dry jocks and socks, this most likely be required by those who do-not carry their own gear. In the spirit of what our forfathers went through a little discomfort is nothing to endure for 9 days. Lets face it 10 minutes into the days walk, what are we, bloody wet. Since completing the trail in Aug 07 under the expert guidence of John (short in statue but big in heart), I have spoken with many a trecker who had undertaken the trail with other providers. In summary of what I am hearing is that it appears to be a race with little or no give back to the people along the way. Even to the point of bartering for low price porters. Keep up the good work ‘AK’. Cheers Fred
Charlie,
I think most of the recommendations have merit. I have just returned from a trek to Everest Base Camp, Nepal. The United Nations Development Programme in conjunction with various foreign governments are actively encouraging the Sherpa people to develop all forms of services for trekkers. This includes the (environmentally sympathetic) provision of teahouse accommodation, showers, enclosed toilets, a wide variety of foods and drink, local handiworks etc. Our guides mentioned that this focus on encouraging local business has also improved the education directly (through sponsorship of schools) and indirectly through commerce.
From my recollection (I did Kokoda in 2006) there was very little of this available on Kokoda. In fact for the most part the locals remained at a distance. While these commercial services offer the improvement in lifestyle the increased interaction between trekkers and the villagers will certainly improve education and I suspect longer term sustainability.
The provision of these services in Nepal are only available in villages that have been around for many generations. There is nothing except the scenery and the experience between the villages. Some may criticise this as commercial exploitation. The reality is that the locals are being tempted by more unscrupulous people such as timber companies.
Some assistance to help the locals develop the capacity to provide these services will underwrite a stronger local community.
Regards
Hi Charlie,
This is a difficult challange, finding the right medium between keeping the great aspects of the track they way that I believe people expect to have it, and provide towards the welfare of the villages. I trekked in 2007, had a pole made, while it wasn’t as I may have expected, it wasn’t the quality I was after, it was the experience, and I happily paid 100 kina for it, probably far too much, but I could see the effort and time spent on it. In most of the villages we went through I managed to buy fruit, etc that was laid on plentifully. We managed one hot shower, it was great half way along, but if it had been everywhere, much of the experience of the track would be lost. I would have been happy to pay an additional 100 kina up front, if I was sure it actually went to the villagers. Over what we had I am really not certain what else would have been possible, they are all great suggestions, but I don’t believe the whole essence and challange of the track should be forgotton.
If I was too do the Trek again it would be a god sent to put on dry clothes the next morning instead off wet ones from the day before,it would be money well spent.Or your have way through and the thought of a nice coffee and scones,when there has been no bread for days is worth at least k10 or k20 even.I never got the chance to buy a pole engraved but if I had I would have been happy to pay up to k60,that would be a great keep sake from a wonderful experience of my life-which was to trek the KOKODA TRACK!
Hello Charlie. I agree that some creature comforts like dry clothes are wonderful, and I’m sure all trekkers would be happy to pay for the service. However, part of the uniqueness of Kokoda trekking would be gone if we introduced too many comforts. One of the things I liked the most, was overcoming those small discomforts each day, like a cold shower and less than perfect toilet facilities. It certainly gave me a much greater sense of achievement to know I could tolerate these things and be all the stronger for it. I also happily paid for fresh fruit and soft drink whenever there was an opportunity but I would also be much happier donating some Kina towards a village education or health program if such a thing could be co-ordinated. I also like the idea of having the carved poles available at the end of the trek. I am sure no one does a trek of this nature expecting it to be easy and our endurance hopefully pays a little respect to the soldiers who fought so bravely there. Good luck in your endeavours to asist the villagers, I just hope we don’t lose sight of what is important.
I am doing the trail in Aug 09 and would very much like to give or do something in return to the local villagers for allowing me on their land to do the trek. Buying local made things which I could take home with me as a keepsake would be wonderful. Fresh fruit and coffee would be something I would purchase.
I will know more when I have done the trip. (wish me luck)
Hi Charlie
I would of liked to buy a video of some of the track to show others as it cant be explained possibly wth a music back ground of a sing sing. Would be great for people that cant make the track.
Properly taken photos of the different stages of the track bought at the end of the trip but proceeds going back to the area that the photo wsa taken.
Not sure about tea and scons. Thats not the way that the diggers had it
Sponsor a Village
Sponsor a School
Sonsor a Child
Donations for Toys
Donations for Schools
Washing the clothes at night was no big deal
Upgrades to the camp sites that were the lesser with insentives of a higher income.
Any sort of Souvenirs at the end of the treck as carrying them along the way would be a problem.
Lukim yu,
Too You
Hi Charlie
Showers, hot or cold, would have been nice at the end of the day. I would have liked more fruit ie passionfruit, bananas and even some veg along the way.
I am not certain about setting up stores. You would need the right person[s] to run them effectively and consistently. Litter could also be a problem as well as introducing “Western” dietry rubbish into the local diet.They are a pretty healthy looking lot at the moment and I wouldn’t want that to change.
I like the idea of having dry clothes, especially socks and boots, to put on in the morning, even if they don’t stay like that for very long.
Looking at it from the other angle-what are the villagers going to spend the extra money on? Not grog or smokes I hope or am I being too patronizing. You wouldn’t want a load of mini Port Moresby’s springing up.
I agree with the suggestions and comments made by all. Not having a had an opportunity to purchase a specific souvenir of my trek disappointed me and was was one of the shortcomings of my first visit. A valuable memento of my time in this beautiful country was one which, hopefully, will be rectified with the purchase of a pole and a billum bag next time. One of the most important things I think we need to consider is the dignity of the locals along the track, these people need to have their efforts appreciated and have a sense of self worth and having the trekkers being reliant on them is a positive step. The efforts of the locals may also bring out an enterpreneurial spirit which may spur others on in an endeavour to improve their lives and that of their families without beiong reliant on hand outs.
Hi Charlie,
I agree with many points above about stores and creature comforts. having lived extensively in remote subsistent pacific communities, some with ambitions to derive income from tourism, I have found that ‘stores’ generally are facility for distributing cheap, poor dietary quality, western food stuffs (and other junk), and that stores are rarely effective or viable in the community when designed to cater for visitors.
The amazing experience walking the trail is in the sense that you are in a world still reasonably untouched by western living. Obviously things are changing and management is necessary to avoid degrading the trail and its communities and environment. I believe sustainable contributions (green toilets, education, water management, access to medical assistance etc) should be supported in communities, and any tourism provisions should be locally sustainable, not imported.
If we want to increase our contribution, there are better ways than making cash payments as we pass.
Good Luck. I hope we manage to strike the balance.
Hi Charlie
I have travelled in other remote areas in the world where self composting toilets are in use. These provide an answer to the problem of toileting for trekkers and also can provide fertilizer for use of the villagers. A surcharge could be applied to all trekkers to fund the initial cost and ongoing maintainance. The care of these could also provide employment for the villagers. Hopefully this would also reduce the impact of trekkers on this delicate enviroment. I believe that what ever initiatives are undertaken the villagers need to have ownership of the process and be involved in the planning, implamentation and ongoning care of any project for in to succeed and be sustainable.
Appart from the washing of clothes, all these other ideas happened with our group on the Track. We gave the villagers donations for their sing-sing, we all bought the beautiful fresh fruit and baked goods at the villages along the way. Our guides did such a wonderful job of the carved trekking poles that we paid K75 for them.
Personally, I wouldn’t want to change much at all from what I experienced. A drying shed at each campsite would be a useful idea and a good way for villagers to make a little extra cash.
Other, more important services are needed along the track. I would rather donate to a “school of the air” or a sporting league between the villages. Most of the children are forced to live with relatives in other villages to receive an education. Then, if they want a high school education, they must move to Port Moresby (endure crime) or to the north, where malaria is the worst. However if some of the smaller villages had a radio and lessons provided over the air, then the children could remain with their families and still receive an education.
I wonder how the Government funded study will go. A week is scarcely enough time to learn about the track itself, let alone try to understand the varying and diverse culures of the people who live in the jungle. Sounds more to me like some bikkie dunking office jocks wanted to walk the track and were too cheap to pay their own way!
Charlie,
There are some great ideas here most of which I would have welcomed.
I feel like others that we tread a fine line between the challenge of the track and its lack of facilities and giving the villagers the opportunity to make something from the trekers.
I wonder if it is appropriate to have a foot massage on the banks of Eora creek given the history of that place. I feel that part of the experience of walking the track is to go without our usual luxuries.
I will never have a better shower than the one I had back in Moresby after the trek. Would it have been as good if I had had one or more showers on the track?
On the other hand why shouldn’t the villagers make a few Kina selling soft drinks or beer on the way.
My feeling would be that souvenirs are a fantastic thing for the villagers to sell. The trekking stick my daughter bought is a treasure ( she loves it all the more because Danny carved it ). She also bought a Bilum bag in Moresby that she would have prefered to buy on the track.
Sit down envoronmental toilets are a great idea, though paying per use would seem too commercial for me. I think a higher camp fee for sites that provide them, would be better.
I also love the idea of a cd with some of the sing-sing songs on it. I have listened on u-tube to some of the recordings of the national anthem and songs like “It’s not an easy road” and these are fabulous memories of the track.
Hi Charlie,
I’ve read most of the comments and (like many others) I think there’s a balance to be struck here. The bilum bags and trekking poles are a winner and I would happily have paid twice what I did for fruit/vegies along the Track. On the other hand, part of the whole experience is “doing it rough” and hot showers, dry clothes etc (in any case they’d be dry for no more than ten minutes once the next day’s trek started!) might detract from that. If I had to pick some standard to differentiate beween what might work and what wouldn’t, I’m thinking that preserving the village culture comes top of the list – if helpem mek moni becomes the guide, I shudder to think what strains would strike traditional values. For that reason, I think you are absolutely right to emphasise that any consultant needs to be very sensitive to Koiari and Orokaivan values. So… bilum bags yes, trekking poles yes, fresh fruit and vegies yes, sing sings yes, and maybe CDs – and I would, as mentioned, happily pay much more for those services. More than that, and I’m worried that monetary benefits might be cancelled out by disruption of the local society. Phrased more positively, I would be in favour of any activity that didn’t endanger the latter. If co-ops could be introduced without all the attendant ills of Western values, then they’re a goer – if not, not. I cannot claim any expertise whatsoever in this field, and thus I can do no more than talk in generalities – but I’m sure that culturally sensitive experts can be found who will know what will work and what won’t. Good luck to you on this and other projects, Charlie – your commonsense approach is worth many times the “advice” that governments appear hell bent on spending money on.
Cheers, Derek.
Hi Charlie,
I have read through everything you have put forward and as a former trekker with Adventure Kokoda in July 2008, lead by Simon Hart and Rowan Tracey.
I completely agree with everything you have put forward here. If some trekkers wish to have some comforts accessible to them on the track and pay the local villages for this, good on them. The income generated for the villages directly will be of enormous benefit and these wonderful people can certainly benefit from any extra income.
I experienced the village fruit, the specially prepared scones and dampers using tradional cooking methods and was privalleged and lucky to do so.
I am also extremely proud to say that I was lucky enough to spend some time with “Victor” a Papuan who was in charge of all porters on our trek, who’s job on the trek was to make sure all the tents were erected at each site every day and transport these along the track. Victor offered to carve my stick I was using as a trekking stick on the second day of our trek in the evening at Isurava. It took him 2 evenings to carve the stick around the fire and he did the most magnificient carvings you have ever seen, the detail and skill involved is amazing. I was extremely honoured to have such a treasured piece of work and must say I used this stick for the 149kms we travelled across the Owen Stanleys, I used it with extreme pride and it has returned to Australia with me and has a special place in my home where I often look at it and refelct on those 10days.
My point here Charlie is that I was more than happy to give Victor and any porter for that matter what ever I could to improve their income stream and way of life.
I support strongly all your initiatives Charlie and only hope that people in the key areas within our Government can listen and act on all the experience you have and support these beautiful people and assist to properly manage this very special place and it’s people.
Hey Charlie,
This is an interesting question and I believe that the implications for what is done today can have long term negatives as well as positives. What impact will any of this have on the authenticity of the track? Also, how will it affect the life style of the locals – will it change their mind set into a more materialistic and captitalist type of thinking? Is this the aim of this program? Some may see this as part of the nature progression of society – its evolution so to speak.
Has any one actually asked the locals what they want and what they need? Or is it once again a case of white man knows best! May be they money can be used to provide sponsorship of local students to enter nursing or teaching professions so that they can come back to the village and help others.
As for the Track, I wouldnt change much – its supposed to be tough and uncomfortable. Its supposed to be wet and challanging. Its supposed to take you out of your comfort zone – so you can know and feel how lucky you are.
Having said that, one of the more enjoyable events of the trek was when we had local food – freshly cooked and presented. That was awesome. This has little impact on the traditional life style of the villagers and doesnt really affect the authenticity of the Track. I would be pleased to support villages who undertake this effort – there wasnt enough of it done to my way of thinking. I personally dont agree with the suggestion of clothes washing and would not participate/contribute in it my self – what form of progress does this promote?
Villagers may be encouraged to trade/sell some hand crafts – this again limits the impact of western influence and promotes local employment. In addition, as no two villages are exact then the variety of products would also be different along the route.
Instead of money, which can be misused – I prefer that medicine, books, hand tools and equipment be given instead. Practical items that benefit the village and not a person who collects the money. Money always corrupts – there is no lack of examples of that world wide.
Finally, what ever is decided must flow to all villages along the Track along equal basis. It is no good for one village to have more funding than another, this could lead to more problems down the track.
Hope this helps. Cheers. Brian
As our trek leader (Simon Hart) observed after we’d traversed the heights of Imita Ridge, if it wasn’t tough the company would be called “Soft C#@ks Kokoda” not “Adventure Kokoda”! I agree with Damian Griffins comments. Whilst we may have different motivations for doing the trek, we all know in advance it will be physically and mentally challenging. However unlike the offerings of some of the other big treks around the globe, what Kokoda delivers is a unique chemistry of experiences. The trekker gains a first hand understanding of the toughness of the terrain our diggers encountered and if they visit the battle sites, the trekker can sense the ferocity of the fighting that would have ensued at close quarters. The trekker also gets to experience a region of tropical rain forest largely untouched by commercial development whilst acquiring an appreciation of the warmth and genuine friendliness of the highland villagers. Regards the proposed offerings, I see no point in pulling on dry clothes which will be drenched in sweat a few hundred metres up the first climb of the day. I also see no point in hot showers – what’s wrong with cold water. It is the tropics! Our group had a number of opportunities to buy carved sticks and were delighted with the results. We also had numerous opportunities to buy bilums – ok without the village name but who cares! We bought lots of local produce available and yes the ubiquitous cans of Coke. In short we did our utmost to ‘helpem mek moni’. Personally I’d hate to think the track simply became a conduit connecting villages with competing offerings of neck rubs, foot massages, warm fluffy towels and a Turkish bazaar atmosphere. I applaud your motivation to assist the locals assist themselves but my observation was they are already doing a reasonable job at that. As the number of trekkers increase every season, the risk is the local customs will be totally subsumed by the demands of the Western influence – instance the proposal that bilums have the village name inserted. It appeared to me the priorities are health and education. I doubt buying a post card will assist either. Would it not be better if trekkers were levied a surcharge which would go directly into a fund established to enhance access to health services and education.
Having trekked Kokoda twice, my fondest memories both times were of interacting and engaging with my personal porter and group carriers. Regardless of whether I had a hot shower, fresh fruit and veg, or dry clothes, I left the trail with a wish to provide something more for those ‘boys’ who supported me and extended friendship to me each and every day. When I walked beside them and listened to them talk to each other and the trekkers about their villages, their families, and many many extended relations all along the track, I wanted to provide something more to support them on a personal level on on ongoing basis- not to have made my own experience better by buying some fruit, then providing a ‘tip’ at the end of the trek, and wishing them well afterwards.
So while i saw an abundance of fruit available for purchase, and ended up with a fabulous carved trekking pole, providing a ‘tip’ at the end of the trek is really such a small amount of money that makes me believe it doesn’t make too much difference tp the needs I saw and heard of while I was walking. What about investing in the long term future prosperity for the boys, their families and their villages? To “helpem mek moni” as you say….needs to start with the basics. I (and so many other trekkers) would be happy to invest in these things if we knew exactly what it was going towards and who it was helping (- having met the people ourselves and seen what they need).
Creating short term opportunities such as washing clothes at the end of the day, providing produce and carving poles will always be appreciated and is a great idea as long as trekkers pass through the villages. However long term education will be a legacy left long after the trekking season ends. You mentioned about engaging an agricultural scientist- what a fabulous idea. Not that self sufficiency seems to be a problem for the villagers, however there are always natural disasters (such as november 2007 flooding at the northern end of the track), general agricultural education, and possible land management issues also, not to mention availability of machinery and tools or alternative methods of production.
On a similar note, what about the Education system? As I understand it, the PNG system seems to have forgotten parts of the Trail. Many schools (such as Kovello) have a teacher who may have received some training, but is not paid until they complete a higher level and are fully qualified? Can we not support the financial cost of training a (Koiari or Orokaiva) teacher in a village such as this- firstly by ensuring that in the future they will be fully paid because their accreditation and proper training is taken care of and ready to be recognised by their government? What a gift for them to take back to the village and its children.
Again, providing finances to fund training of a nurse or medical professional for particular villages will be a longer term commitment needed, but can only get off the ground once initial educational costs and/or qualifications are met.
Having seen the need for education, health care and agriculture, and walked alongside these people whose lives and existence depend on our tourism, I’d love to see opportunities available for sponsorship throughout/after the trek. Perhaps a trekker will hear about a porters family member who has been very sick and see the need for a health care professional in that village- then wishing to donate money towards a fund that will pay for some training. Perhaps it is the porters own children who wish to go to university one day, but setting aside money from tips and fruit sales (or mismanagment of the funds) just wont save enough for this dream to happen.
Talking to the people who make the trekking possible for us is a fantastic start, and i know they are thankful for your energy and thoughts that have gone into this, hoping to make life ‘fuller’ for them. In terms of opportunities, I’d like to see not just the short term opportunities pursued (ie, during a trek or during the trekking season), but see some long term action resulting from each trekkers first hand experience of engaging with the villagers and porters etc. When they give us so much in each trek, we can only give back some greater opportunities that will impact them and their families personally for the future…..
Dear Charlie,
Simple souvenirs such as carved poles and Bags and other craft items are always good momentos of the track and the experience of walking through the villages. When I walked the track back in 2007 I primarily went for the historic/military experience that our diggers forged, I was surprised at how much I learnt of the PNG culture and the remoteness that the villages face everyday especially when it comes to basic first aid and education. I would be happy to pay more (as part of the upfront costs) for the more advanced facilities that the villages put in place( i.e reward those villages that put more effort into their camping facilities). A few drinks and fruit (left in its skin) and scones were always welcomed when we entered some of the more enterprising villages. I would encourage the villagers to derive benefit from trekkers…its human nature.
Regards
Sam Turnbull
Hi Charlie,
This might be slightly biased coming from me.
I think from a health and environmental point of view sanitation and water would be the highest priority for me.
Clean toilets that are not polluting the environment and safe drinking water to ensure trekkers and villagers health is of the highest possible standard.
I am sure everyone walking the trail would be happy to pay more per night knowing it was going back to the villages to clean and maintain the amenities.
Regards,
Simon Gough.
Hello Charlie,
Ron Beattie in the first response mentioned that some of the porters are master carvers. I was very fortunate to not only have Victor (mentioned by Ron) as my personal porter, but he also carved a pole for me which has great sentimental value and now has pride of place in my home. I believe the pole is worth far more than Victor asked for in payment, and I would have been very happy to double the asking price. He was inundated with requests which he could not meet, therefore the suggestion of a collection of poles at both ends of the trail would certainly assist in providing extra financial support for the villages and villagers.
Another suggestion I have would be to arrange with the residents of a village somewhere along the track to provide the trekkers with a treat – roast pig! I feel that to add this to one evening meal would go over very well, with not a large contribution from each trekker. It would add a little variety to the menu and also give the local villagers the opportunity to not only cook up a storm for the trekkers, but also to raise further Kina for use within their village.
I agree with many of the ideas which others have suggested, so there should be scope for lots of dialogue with the “authorities” should you have the opportunity for input. It is time for those who know best (tour operators and trekkers) to have their voices heard!! Go for it Charlie.
Cheers,
Liz
Dear Charlie,
I personally would not like to see too many more ‘cushy’ additions being offered on the track such as clothes washing and scones, although if someone had offered me that on day five perhaps I may have weakened!? In saying that, I do think MANY people would be happy to purchase different offerings at different villages such as the toast at …… (the village name escapes me). I think the key here is to have something different at each village as opposed to toast at three of them as it wouldn’t seem so special. Perhaps some of the villagers could fill the water containers for a small fee? Ok, maybe scones and dry socks really would be a great idea!
With best wishes and many thanks for your dedication to this wonderful country and people.
Nicola
Dear Charlie upon reflection of my Trail, my suggestion would be that the village people are in dire need of Medical supplies,ie Panadol,Bandages and other supplies being foot powder,vaseline,etc that we take for granted we were constantly being asked to donate any medical supplies that we could spare to leave with the village people. I would preferr to donate a $100 Aust at the start of the Trek if I could be assured that the monies were going towards buying these supplies and leaving an amount of these supplies at each village that we stayed or trekked through.
May I also suggest sporting educational equipment for the children. I took along some twenty small Sherring footballs , we left two at each village we stayed at and it was interesting to watch the children next morning kicking and enjoying having something to play with,perhaps some monies could be donated to purchasing some small toys,sporting and educational equipment for the village children.
My suggestion would be that the local people would be more appreciative receiving something that could enhance there lives, rather than having them do things for us. May the Kokoda traill continue for the benefit of both cultures.Take care and have a great day.Iain
From my recollections;
1. Getting into wet socks and jocks each morning was a good wakeup which I could do without, so the clothes drying idea I would pay for. No need for washing, but it would not hurt. My group discussed the benefits of a ‘drying hut’ at the time; to have one run by the villagers would make sure the fires burned all night.
2. Any food, any time, eg fruit or scones.
3. We got a short hot shower at Lake Myola courtesy of a 200 litre drum with a fire under it, bucketed into the shower head drum. A high point, about 4 litres each was enough. Definitely a K10 value.
4. A bit of local history/village tour? K5 by a group of 20 would add up.
When we see how little these people have, and how few their options for generating cash, most/all trekkers will contribute to such schemes. I think they are a better long term option than giving items, it allows villages to develop an economy.
I am happy to pay for fresh fruit and the occasional drink-though people wanting coffee must be walking at a colder time of year than I did. Anything more would turn the villages into beggers. I can imagine all the little kids jumping at us wanting money as in India and I do not think this would destroy the tradional village culture.
In my view it is far more appropriate to divert funds to provide educational and medical funds and equipment where the villages can have an annual credit budget in Morseby which they can utilize for buying educational or medical services.
They might then be able to get together and afford to pay for a monthly doctor to visit a group of villages along the track and bring supplies for instance.
There must be minimal effect on village culture. Washing my clothes every night is definitely not on my agenda. All the yreckers need to smell the same!!
Any decision needs to be made by the village chiefs and not by well meaning outsiders.
Suzie Turner
Dear Charlie, fellow trekkers and Boffins,
I wouldn’t like to see the experience become too commercialised or cushy as has previously been mentioned.
I think traditional artwork is a great memento.
Whilst trekking I encountered a lovely entrepreneurial young boy who charged 5k for me to have a photo with him in traditional headdress. It is one of my favourite photos. This may be an avenue worth pursuing.
Cheers,
Dani
Hi Charlie,
Part of the attraction of the trail was that it did not have a lot of the “cushy” items along the way.
Treat such as fruit etc which fits in with the local culture were truely appreicated when offered, and simple items like coffee etc would be welcome.
I would hate to see western creature comforts and treats bought in with out proper understanding on the effect of the local tribes people and what the waste would have in the local environment.
It is never easy to get the balance right here regarding what is value add, and your comment to have a “consultant free zone’ and engage an agricultural scientist experienced in Malanesian culture” would be of great value.
The other difficult part here is to try and retain the heritage value of the area and the culture of the tribes people, and balance that with improving their lifestlye and bring (welcome) progress to the peoples of the trail.
Smarter people than me need to work this out!
Rgds
John Pilbeam
Hi Charlie,
I fully concur with what Damian Griffin said in his post. Hot showers, washed clothes , scones and coffee !! Come on !! If you want that service ,you should be staying in the Sofitel. I have no problem with purchasing a Billum bag or a carved trekking pole but to want these extras . Spare me !
Regards,
Steve Rawson
Hi Charlie my son Chase and i were so proud to receive a carved walking stick Norman carved mine and Vene carved Chases each night around the campfire they would take pride in there work we paid $50 kina each and at no time would i barter on the track i was to happy to pay the price to the lovely village people they made us so welcome and i can tell you those carved poles hold pride of place in our home. i brought a lovely bilum bag for my wife they had them hanging on a barb wire fence and i was happy to pay what ever they wanted they do such great work if a walker did not buy one then it would be an in justice. i just love the people and trecking the Kokoda trail i think of the time i had with great pride and long to go again one day i hope before i get to old .ROBBIE FROM TASSIE.
I’m torn on the idea of luxuries. They’d be nice to have, but I expect it to be hard physically and emotionally – the challenge is a major reason I’m going. Having certain luxuries to make it easier seems to me to defeat the purpose (as much as I’d like fresh scones etc!). Hot showers would be great, but the thought of having one in the hotel at the end of the trek is more appealing to me. Making the trip more commercial by offering too many comforts would take away from the experience. There’s a fine line that shouldn’t be crossed.
I think buying locally made items like trekking poles, clothes etc and food along the way is a great idea. I can live with smelly clothes for a week or so.
I’d also like to know what I can take and leave that will be of benefit to the villagers.
E
Hi Charlie,
Part of the reason for me walking the track was to experience a bit of hardship and not to do it 21st century easy. The showers and dry clothes would definitely be a plus (especially the dry clothes). A good cup of local coffee would be good but the walking sticks and bilum bags could start to look a bit touristy and I would rather have a traditional look as I would know where it came from. While I have spent years using bush toilets and straining sticks I would also pay for a clean well maintained thunder box and hand wash facilities to relax and ponder on the days walk. I would not like to see things get too commercial or too far from the natural beauty of the people and country as it is
Cheers
Brett
Hi Charlie
I have to agree with previous comments – it is the hardship that makes this trek so special. I did it over 10 years ago and it is still a powerful memory. I must admit my feet would have loved a dry pair of socks to get into each morning but I survived in wet socks for 10 days!
I think paying for cultural events and items (walking sticks and bilum bags)and fruit is good but the last thing you want to do is make it touristy with people hassling you to buy things at each village.
Charlie,
This is about the people, they live simple lives that we in Australia are simply forgetting about,
I was one of the blokes who brought a carved pole at Kovello Day 1 AK 908 and chucked the flash ones in my pack. $30k is what I paid and that bloody stick saved me more than once and yes it is the physical thing I treasure from my exprience. Others in my group tried my stick and didn’t want to give it back. Mine was pre made and the fella just carved my name into and brought it to Hoi that night.
The boys in our group made sticks for us and I had one made for my sons and they are proud to have REAL things from the track. Watching them burn & carve the stick was a pleasure. Charlie encourage this to continue within AK Treks.
Hot showers, Did the diggers have hot showers, come on people A creek cold can of ‘Cock’ opp’s ‘Coke’ was the suger rush required.
Each Trekker in our group would pay each day AT each campsite for cleaner “Heads”
As stated by me in the section about the villagers teaching them to cook (some of the chips I have ever had were made by them along the track) and sew as at Abuari, they had stuff they made for sale there(sorry Simon nothing would or could come close to your flower shorts)
Real souvenirs made by them I would glady buy and carry. Pre inform trekkers about these types of things available during trek.
School stuff, I have heaps of things at home that would benefit the real poeple of Kokoda is there a way to get stuff the people? we know would benefit from the left overs we certainly have here in Australia
Go hard or Go Home
Wayno
If there were some way in the villages of being able to recharge batteries for cameras or video cameras for the trekkers. The villages would be able to charge for the service and have power for their needs also.
Regards
Steven
Charlie Lynn
Thanks for the E-mail. For me one of the challenges was to do it tough and I would be happy to have less of comforts of home, I engaged a personal porter for my trek even though I carried 90% of my gear myself however I thought it necessary to support the people that work there. I can understand why some people would like their gear washed and have a good cup of fresh coffee and support this idea however for myself I would rather go without. I would be more than happy to make a donation to each village that we pass through, if there could be some sort of donation box or some place in each village where a cash donation could be left I would be more than happy to give 20-30k to each village that we pass through and I am sure many others would do the same. Not sure if this helps but just my personal thoughts.
Regards
Greg Nielsen
Morning Charlie
Thanks for your email. The notion of financially assisting the villagers will ultimately be a tough one to get exactly right. Having recently competed the track, I thought A.K. had a really great system in place with the villages that we visited. I think every one of our trekkers were delighted to pay for the wonderful fresh fruit and delightful singing groups. Personally though, I have some reservations about some of the suggestions in your email that were suggested by previous trekking groups. Basically, my concerns relate to the fact that the Kokoda Track is a muddy track through the middle of the jungle in PNG. Its neither a resort nor a hotel. I accept that people complete the track for different reasons, but ‘roughing it’ is an important part of the overall experience.
For this reason, I find the laundry idea a superfluous and meaningless indulgence. Far more importantly however, I feel its is a quite condescending way to treat the villagers. As a trekker, I certainly would not use this service if it were on offer, and I doubt any of the other guys in our K9 group would have either.
Coffee and scones? Again, it comes down to your own personal reasons for doing the track, but the food provided to us by Eddie and Dominic was so fantastic, traditional scones would have been entirely unnecessary. There may be scope however for the villagers to procure some of their traditional sweets or desserts for purchase by the trekkers. The difference here, for me at least, would be an opportunity to further enrich my Kokoda experience by enjoying some locally made treats that reflect traditional PNG village cuisine, rather than have the villagers try and produce or replicate a more typical western sweet.
Bilum bags and Carved trekking poles I think are excellent ideas. These allow villagers to proudly showcase their excellent and traditional skills of sewing and carving and allow the trekker to purchase a meaningful and enduring memento of their trip. All of the blokes in our K9 group paid to have trekking poles carved and we loved the uniquely individual results. The fellows who carved the poles for us were justifiably proud of their craft and we all appreciated their marvelous skills.
Whilst the toilets at several of the campsites challenged my balance, co-ordination, and olfactory senses, they were at least functional. I gather that some more developed regions throughout Southeast Asia rely on very similar facilities, so for me at least, given that we were in the middle of the PNG jungle, the toilet facilities were generally quite acceptable.
These are just my ideas, and I thank you for asking me to provide them. I’d be interested to hear how the very worthwhile notion of increasing the villagers’ wealth develops. Please keep me in touch.
Cheers
Neil PETERSEN
Hi Charlie,
Well I’m truly torn between how much little treats would have been appreciated along the way and how wonderful the experince was without them.
I did buy a bag along the way somewhere and would not have purchased it if it had said Kokoda on it (to commercial for me).
However I would have paid through the nose for a hot scone or some fresh bread along the way. I would also have happily paid for fresh meat.
Putting on wet clothes and washing them myself was never an issue and I don’t imagine that I would hand over my washing when I am more than capable of doing it myself. This is not an issue with the cost just my pride.
A hot shower is something that I would have sold Susan to get, even just a bucket of hot water would have been a real treat.
A carved walking stick is something unique to the track and yes I would happily pay for one of those.
I would hate to see trekers paying for photo’s. In other parts of the world I’ve travelled where this is the norm the entire moment of the photo is lost while a price is negoitiated and money changes hands.
All of the ideas are great and I understand that the locals need the money however one of the qualities of Kokoda is that the local villages never expected anything from us. This is a quality that I would hate to see disappear.
Cheers Rachel
Hi Charlie
I must admit that I would not be interested in having my clothes washed or the coffee or scones. I think the cold showers and drop toilets were really part of the experience. For me much of the appeal of the trek was the lack of Westernisation.
I agree that we should do more for the villages rather than them doing more for us. Paying for the carved walking stocks is an excellent idea. I also like the idea of CD’s featuring the voices from each village – perhaps these could be sold at the end of the trek and the funds could then be apportioned.
Good luck with your submissions.
Bests
Mel
When we walk the Kokoda Trail we are not travelling in Australia and I do not believe that we should be looking for Western luxuries as part of that experience. We should rather encourage the villagers to share, and market, their own culture, food and and lifestyle with trekkers and not expect them to produce western luxuries and food. If you can’t go the journey without hot showers, scones and laundered clothes- harden up! This is a journey entwined in the military history, the culture, a natural enviroment and our own reasons for being there- lets not attempt to change, modify or ‘upgrade’ the track to our standards, but appreciate it as it is, and consistently work towards assisting the villagers through a hand up and not a hand out.
Lets get the right people with the right knowledge and the right intentions involved in the decision making process- they are already on the ground. We do not need consultants who have no experience to undertake fly in fly out studies or we have learnt nothing from history and risk making the same mistakes that that an out of touch HQ made in 1942.
There is no such thing as “the Kokoda experience” but rather each person has their own unique experience relating to their own personal reasons for undertaking this journey.
Lets leave this as genuine as possible while building a sustainable trekking industry which will benefit the communities along the track into the future- no consultants, anachronisms, jargon or bullshit required, just overdue action.
Charlie, lets keep up the pressure!
John Nalder
John,
In 1972, Neville Glare – the Executive Director of the Papua National Parks Board believed the Kokoda Trail could be promoted as an economic asset without denigrating its wartime history. He wrote:
‘No Australian soldier who fought on the track can forget it, nor can he forget the carriers and stretcher bearers of this land who fought a cruel war there with him. … The sons and young brothers of these men are bursting to come and try the track, and I am sure that away in Japan there are others who will want to carry out a similar pillgrimage. And in Papua New Guinea, there are increasing numbers of young people for whom the track is challenge to their physical endurance and their tradition as sons of the men who gave so much on it to drive back the invaders 30 years ago. So why not a National Walking Track? A rugged and primitive one, for people who are fit and tenacious, and who want to remain resourceful. For men and women who know the true comradeship of long walks and camps in rugged terrain and the satisfaction that comes with conquering one more hill. … How about it, Papua New Guinea?
Unfortunately Glare’s suggestions were ignored.
The greatest threat to the potential of ‘the Kokoda experience’ that you describe is from well-intentioned but misguided government departments engaging consultants who have little empathy with trekkers (the paying customers), the Koiari and Orokaiva villagers who live between Owers Corner and Kokoda (the landowners), or the many tracks that comprise the Kokoda Trail.
Charlie,
There are a lot of positive’s in the previous suggestions and as a long term PNG trecker I would never turn down the chance of a hot shower after a long day and any other comforts I could get. In the case of Bilum’s all PNG Bilum makers out to be encouraged to start making the old fashioned string Bilums that used to be around – a much better item than the new style’s.
Hi Charlie
I could not agree more with John Nalder in what he says. I trained with John before my trek in 2007 and he was fantastic. What is the sense of trekking Kokoda if you have “home comforts”. For me it was all about experiencing the hardships, enjoying the natural beauty and learning about PNG culture. We are visitors in their country and should not expect them to cater to our needs. It is totally up to the people of the villages what they want to offer the trekkers. It is hard for me to express what I am feeling in my heart, but if I had the wherewithall to do so, I would trek Kokoda as often as I could. I was so touched by my experiences while trekking that beautiful country, I cried all the way home. Why spoil the beauty of the place by offering things we have in our everyday life. I hope you can understand part of what I am trying to convey in this reply. Thank you for the opportunity to experience what I did.
Like Wendy, I too would love to have some recordings of the villagers’ songs and music. It is just amazing!
Thanks and keep up the good work.
Jo
Hi Charlie,
Still in training for the trek in July 09 but would like a balanced approach to support for the villigers, being Health before Wealth.
I would be more than happy to have clean dry clothing for each couple of days, good coffee (scones optional), and a trekking pole at the end of the trek.
Looking forward to the trip
Hi Charlie sorry about the delay in responding. Many great ideas already – I would happily pay for many of the things you have suggested – stand outs for me on my trek were a hot shower at Myola and the bread that we had there that night. A hot shower and some bread each night would be great luxuries on the track as would be a self composing sit down toilet. In addition to the carved sticks we brought back I would have loved to have supported the people by buying local coffee to bring home. Not sure if there is a customs issue coming back into Australia. Many trekkers would pay a premium price back in Australia for coffee from the highlands of PNG, especially if they could identify the product with a village they had walked through – getting the beans out of course is a challenge.
Hi Charlie’
Im terribly imprest by all the preceding comments but Damien Griffin & John Nalder sum up my thoughts best. Doing it tough is the whole point of the trip in my book, to get some idea of what our troops did in 42.
A carved stick would be great – I still have my plain old one from 04, & fresh fruit is always welcome, but Im not too sure about the other stuff.
Keep up the good work Charlie
Cheers , Tim
G’day Charlie,
There are a lot of good points in here but I don’t know why people want to trek and add all of these comforts.
I also don’t know if we want to make the track as commercial as other parts of the world (Everest, Nepal etc). A large part of the appeal is getting to knwo the locals for who they are. Unfortunately as westerners we view success and happiness as being achieved by westernising the other cultures we come in contact with.
I have seen this in Bougainville, East Timor, the Middle East, Nepal etc etc.
If the local population is not westernised and thinking commercially then we feel sorry for them and feel the need to change them.
It’s a real shame as many cultures are happier before we force this change and increasingly we see this change being pushed onto the PNG population.
Tread softly, assist where required and leave only footsteps. Do not force change to our way of life.
Just my opinion.
Look forward to catching up again soon mate.
Cheers,
Glenn Azar
Dear Charlie
thanks for the opportunity to make some suggestions – this is a very worthwhile pursuit and a development issue not always easily understood or well appreciated. That said, Im no expert in rural livelihoods either but have been around long enough to have a couple of ideas which might be helpful.
the village laundry idea sounds like a good one to me. God knows how we craved clean clothes on the trail, but I just wonder how practical. If somebody’s kit should go ‘walkabout’, this would be a major inconvenience for the trekker and probably a bloody big headache for the trek organiser (I just cant imagien you putting up with the bloody whinging that would go on !!!). Maybe this is unlikely to happen, but I guess there would need to be some one in the village responsible for both organising but also checking that everything returns.
the one that really jumps out for me was the hot shower we had at Myola creek. If an arrangement like this was set up in every village, some of us probably wouldnt want to come home. I reckon this is a winner – its low maintenance, it requires some initial set up and then just someone to light a fire and keep the 44g drum topped up – and most importantly would be in huge demand. This is almost a high return activity when you look at demand vs workload.
the fruit stalls along the trail are also a winner, atleast from the hikers perspective.
I like the point above about the carved walking poles at both ends of the trail – can I suggest though (as you know) these guys carve alot more than just walking poles, so I reckon a carvers market (maybe set up as a bit of a village cooperative) at each end, so that the village runs the market and the returns go back to the village – but of course the risk in coops is that the ‘bigman’ may diddle the books
I also reckon some sort of welcoming ceremony performed by villages at either end (once youve completed the trail) would be a really emotional way to finish. And I also think there is probably more opportunities to promote PNG culture on the trail – like various cultural ceremonies or talks or even just getting a few of the trekkers to try beetle nut (that would be pretty funny actually)
I think there is a huge job creation opportunity for trek preservation / maintenace – I want to clarify though, I dont mean building handrails and escalators because clearly we want to maintain the ‘pristineness’ of the trail – but rather what about simple things like trail signs (eg ‘you are now at Kokoda Pass’, ’25kms to Isurava’ or even some battleground signs explaining some of the history and context), the occasional bench seat, leaf hut and dunny probably wouldnt go astray along the trail either.
finally, its worth thinking of how to do this – in many countries things like this have been supported through microfinancing schemes ran by donors and NGOs – whereby small cash grants are given to set up a sustainable business (with alittle bit of business training thrown in) – this might be the way to go (I can probably track down some info on different approaches if you need it)
anway mate, hope this helps, thanks for the opportunity to comment and keep up the good work Charlie – god knows its needed.
best regards
Tony
Hi Charlie,
It is disappointing the government is paying $50,000 to conduct a livelihood study when so much knowledge is already available to them via trek operators and trekkers.
When I walked the track I concurred with your thinking of giving prioity to educating the young.
Back to the matter at hand.
No, I would not pay to have my clothes washed and dried. I would prefer to do this task myself.
Yes, I would buy scones and coffee on the track.
I would buy some momentos along the track. Particulary items that identified the village. But I fear this may cause them to persue commericalism.
Th facilities at the villages should be improved. I liked the idea of a warm shower at Myola. The toilets could be improved and a few signs could be posted.
Keep up the good work Charlie.
Cheers
Hi Charlie,
The thing that impressed me along the track was the cleanliness of the villages and the genuiness of the people. This needs to be preserved. We should not be forcing our culture on these people. What would they like to do – have they been consulted.
I agree that the hot shower at Myola was a highlight – and would appear to be a simple thing to provide. I agree washing clothes at the end of the day adds to the overall challenge of the trek. Maybe trekkers could pay the villagers to maintain the fires in the drying huts to ensure their clothes are dry to put on each morning.
The fruit and the bread that was also provided at some villages was a welcome addition to our diet and I would pay for similiar items along the track.
I am a firm believer in maintaining the pristine nature of the forests. The big thing for governments world wide is carbon emissions. We should be paying these villagers to be caretakers of the forests. It would be criminal if roads are built and the forests logged. However, the people / country has to have an income. We cannot destroy our own forests on one hand and then complain if this happens in PNG. The solution is for us to pay to maintain the pristine wilderness.
Regards
Aileen
Charlie,
Just back from 910A-some interesting developments along track re subject of Blog:
Isurava. A New toilet block (3 toilets) has been constructed since Anzac Day (they were not there on the 22nd of April) with excellent wooden (obviously constructed by a qualified carpenter) outer protection and with lockable doors. Would do credit to any outdoor dunny here in Australia-a real doable model for the other camp sites.
Efogi 1. Evonne agreed after a short discussion with me that she would establish a clothes drying service with the other women of the village. $5k for shirt, $5K for trousers, $2K for socks and $5K for boots. I believe Chad’s trek were first to use the service (AK910 K to O) as they arrived a couple of days after us. I understand Evonne did a roaring trade and we now need to let the other trek leaders know about the service-unfortunately for we of 910A we continued on to Naduri saturated.
We had so many carved sticks done for us (usually done by Victor at Kovello- who was subcontracted by the other porters (they made $10K to $20K and he made $20 -30K per stick) the plane looked like a forestry vehicle. Everyone was happy.
Thoughts from the blog turned into positive action for the benefit of the Koiari Villages along the track.
Regards,
Ron Beattie
Dear Charlie,
I did AK47 in August 2006 with Peter Davis and thoroughly enjoyed the exprience.
I have skimmed most of the replies you have had to your quest and they have either outstripped my meagre ideas or already coverred them.
All I can ADD is we purchase other carving beside walking poles. Small traditional hard wooden things to make carrying home and passing customs easy.
I like the idea of CD’s of singing of porters or villaager or both.
I ask if some viallagers could give treckers talks at night about their local customs, beliefs and culture as long as that is acceptable to them.
Good luck in your quest for realistic and sensible support for the villagers and people along the Track.
Charlie and the crew
I just finished the walk with Ron Beattie (our legend and what knowledge he has – made for a great trek).
I fully support the concepts of cleaning and food being available. The sticks I liked coming from my porter (on a subcontract basis) as it reminds me of him. They could set up a stall at both ends but still give porters the chance of making a few extra dollars (expecially for Ron who spend 2 hours getting thorugh customs with all of his – I guess they thought he was from a logging company doing a recon mission).
As for comforts – no way. I did this trek to experience the hardship, so no creature comforts for the trekkers (and I was sick for 3 days). For the locals different story, if we can provide better building material, medicine etc through grants or charity runs then that is great and should be done – I might even have another go – what am I saying!
Another thought is the charitable fund being set up – a great idea. I wanted to give my boots but needed them to get home. If there was some way that I could buy something before I left and give it to my porter, his family etc then that would be acceptable (in this way it is still fresh in your mind) otherwise $$ to a charity is the go.
Col Grace – 910A
Hi Charlie,
I have recently completed AK910 K-O, a truly memorable experience which I believe, along with some wonderful advice from Chad and Bernie will make me a better man.
Our group was the first to utilise the clothes washing service at Efogi, which I believe was of great benefit not only for us trekkers but also for the Villagers as well. The clothes came back slightly damp but more importantly, clean! I would encourage potential trekkers to consider supporting the communities along the trek by taking advantage of the service offered. The cost was 5$ Kina for Shirts/ trousers, $2 Kina Socks/Hankies etc.
The idea put forward by others where trekkers could purchase walking sticks pre-carved at the end of the trek has merit in terms of transport but, knowing that your porter has carved a personalised stick means so much and adds meaning once you get it home.
Once again, thank you Adventure Kokoda, Chad and Bernie for a wonderful journey not only into the past and present, but also into ones own character. I am proud to have met you and to call you friend.
Regards, Ian.
dear charlie i did the track in august 07 one of the reasons for doing the track was trying to understand the hardship of what our soldiers went through so not having hot showers, dry clothes is part of that. The idea of paying just that bit extra for the privelege staying in villages along the track, for local fruit or pole carvings seems logical to me. I left whatever medical supplies i had leftover at the hospital in kokoda. The idea of locals selling cans of soft drink and twisties was great to see at some stops. The idea of scones and jam, hot showers at every stop ,someone washing and drying my clothes thats not what the track is for, as my trek leader simon hart would say get a can of harden up. Regards maxine
Hi Charlie’
Im terribly imprest by all the preceding comments but Damien Griffin & John Nalder sum up my thoughts best. Doing it tough is the whole point of the trip in my book, to get some idea of what our troops did in 42.
A carved stick would be great – I still have my plain old one from 04, & fresh fruit is always welcome, but Im not too sure about the other stuff.
Keep up the good work Charlie
Cheers , Tim
G’day Charlie,
There are a lot of good points in here but I don’t know why people want to trek and add all of these comforts.
I also don’t know if we want to make the track as commercial as other parts of the world (Everest, Nepal etc). A large part of the appeal is getting to knwo the locals for who they are. Unfortunately as westerners we view success and happiness as being achieved by westernising the other cultures we come in contact with.
I have seen this in Bougainville, East Timor, the Middle East, Nepal etc etc.
If the local population is not westernised and thinking commercially then we feel sorry for them and feel the need to change them.
It’s a real shame as many cultures are happier before we force this change and increasingly we see this change being pushed onto the PNG population.
Tread softly, assist where required and leave only footsteps. Do not force change to our way of life.
Just my opinion.
Look forward to catching up again soon mate.
Cheers,
Glenn Azar