Adventure Kokoda Blog

Adventure Kokoda led 720 Australians from all walks of life across the Kokoda Trail this year. Most were profoundly affected by the experience in a positive way and now have a deep affection for the country and its people.

We provided temporary work to 2,160 Koiari and Orokaiva guides and carriers who established a special relationship with the trekkers they supported during the trek.

In addition to this our trekkers donated almost 1400 new books to the Port Moresby Grammar School library.  We have also established a Kokoda Bursary Program at the school and provided them with an abundance of sporting gear and other items.  We also donated two computers to Tessie Soi’s PNG ‘Friends Foundation’ together with financial support for the wonderful work she does.  We have also provided some financial support to the Buk Bilong Pikannini program for children in the Tuberculosis Ward at the Port Moresby General Hospital.
Along the track our trekkers have donated approximately $50,000 in medical supplies to the Kokoda Memorial Hospital and more recently to the Sogeri Health Centre.  We also provide school books and sporting gear to villages along the track.

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Our experience with Kokoda has provided an interesting insight into our relationship with Melanesia in general - and Papua New Guinea in particular.

At the beginning of our journey in 1991 we quickly realised that Papua New Guinea was not on our collective radar. Our general views were conditioned by negative media reports that registered the country as a ‘no-go zone’ in our national subconscious.

Nobody would argue against the widely held view that Papua New Guinea faces some formidable challenges in the short and medium term. Some commentators argue the country will descend into chaos before the problems are properly addressed. Others believe the natural assets of the country - mineral wealth, agricultural potential, pristine environment and cultural diversity will see it emerge as a destination of choice for eco-trekkers.

We were once brothers in the Pacific. The United Nations decreed that Australia be responsible for nurturing our closest neighbour, which was regarded as a ‘nation of a thousand tribes’, into the 20th Century. We established a Department of External Territories and set up a colonial administration based on Governors and Patrol Officers known as ‘kiaps’. A School of Pacific Administration was established in Mosman to train adventurous young ‘kiaps’ in the language and culture of Melanesia. (more…)

Diggers descriptions of the climb up the ‘Golden Staircase’ towards Imita Ridge never seemed to gel with the actual climb on today’s trek route.

Last November I met up with a team of our PNG trek leaders, Patrick, Wahu Womara, Joe Adoa, Elijah Billy, Robin Guia, Auda Gudoi, Stanley Elodo, Joe Wea. Leonard and Joe Wuena and we went in search of the original route over Imita Ridge.

Our readings took us to the east of a knoll and parallel to the Goldie River for awhile. We eventually picked up the the spur at the base of Imita Ridge which led us up a narrow ridge to the north-east. Even with my GPS and all of the boys cutting with their machetes we we still finished up in re-entrants a couple of times. We will never fully understand the desperation our diggers faced in this environment when they were forced off the track and cut-off for weeks on end.

I was grateful to have our GPS satellite technology combined with the natural bushcraft of our boys and their razor sharp machetes. It was a special to be with them in this environment. (more…)

The 2008 Victory in the Pacific (VP Day) Service was conducted at the Kokoda Track Memorial Walkway at Concord on 15 August 2008.

The keynote speaker for the commemorative service was the Chief of the Army, Lieutenant General Ken Gillespie AO DSC CSM. 

General Gillespie:

It is an honour to be here with you today as we pause to reflect on the very real sacrifices and fabulous achievements of the Australian people in their contribution to the Allies’ Victory in the Pacific in the Second World War.

On August 15, 1945, Prime Minister Chiefly announced to the nation that the Japanese had agreed to unconditionally surrender, and as a consequence, the Second World War was over.  Australians reacted to the surrender in a tremendous mood of joy, with spontaneous celebrations breaking out all over the nation.   For a jubilant Australia wildly celebrating on 15 August one thought was paramount.  The war was over. 
But, in the immediate aftermath of these celebrations, Australians began to appreciate that, because of the six years of war, the world had changed.  And, Australia too was forever changed by this most destructive of conflicts.

We gather here this morning to commemorate the end of war in the Pacific 63 years ago. Of the many occasions and anniversaries we commemorate in the course of each year, including those marking the conclusion of past conflicts, this one is of particular significance. The Pacific war was the first and only time in the short history of our nation when our territorial integrity was subject to threat, and when acts of war were carried out against our people on – and above - Australian soil. (more…)

Education is the only chance Papua New Guineans have of breaking the shackles of international aid donors and taking ownership of their own destiny.

Unfortunately the system does not have the resources to meet the most basic demands. According to PNG Department of Education supply and demand projections for 2006 there will be 1,707,677 students seeking enrolment this year but only 908,096 places available - a shortfall of 799,581 or 46.8 per cent!

Of more concern for the immediate future is the situation for year 11 and 12 students. According to the Departments figures there will be 244,613 students competing for 16,060 places - a shortfall of 600 per cent!

Responsibility for education PNG was transferred from National to Provincial Governments in 1978. Inefficiencies and corruption within these decentralised systems have been well documented over the years and the quality of education has diminished to the extent that Papua New Guinea’s educational enrolments are now among the lowest in Asia. The rate of attrition and dropouts at primary level is exceptionally high at 40 per cent.

Whilst a few government schools are doing their best to cope students seeking a quality education are advised to seek placements in independent schools run by churches or private boards.

Our experience with government schools in Central and Oro Provinces over the past few years supports this advice. We were unable to develop an objective merit-based selection process for students or a system to prevent those we did select from being substituted by other ‘wan-toks’. We also found it difficult to communicate with schools as lines are often down; fax machines are unserviceable and progressive school reports were almost impossible to obtain.

We therefore sought an independent school with professional management, proper governance and the capacity to adopt a scholarship program for Koiari and Orokaiva students from Central and Oro Provinces.

The Port Moresby Grammar School was recommended to us.  This is an independent International School for students in the Nation’s capital. It offers high quality and relevant education in a caring and disciplined environment, which will prepare children for life in Port Moresby or anywhere else in the world. (more…)

The Adventure Kokoda ‘Bring-a-Book’ campaign for the Port Moresby Grammar School has delivered more 1,000 books in 2008.

Adventure Kokoda trekkers are encouraged to each ‘bring a book’ which we consolidate and present to the school on arrival in Port Moresby.

Deputy-Principal, Michael Luff, has advised that Port Moresby Grammar has been able to employ a second librarian because of the response to the program.

Adventure Kokoda has entered into a partnership with the Port Moresby Grammar school because of its philanthropic approach to education in PNG - and because it has proper governance. This is a key factor in considering any form of philanthropic partnerships in PNG.

Adventure Kokoda has established a Kokoda Bursary Program with the school. Trekker who wish to sponsor a student can have the bursary named after them.

Michael Luff has provided an update on our ‘Bring-a-Book’ campaign in a recent email: (more…)

The opening of the Isurava Memorial on the 60th anniversary of the Kokoda campaign was a proud moment for all who fought in the campaign and for those who are determined that their legacy will never be forgotten. The journey began with the desire of a trekker, Graham Scott, to bring some of the veterans from the 39th Militia and 2/14th AIF Battalions who fought at the battle for Isurava, back to Kokoda for a ‘last parade’. We were then requested to find an appropriate site for helicopters to land as close to the battlesite as possible and begin the necessary planning to make it happen. As part of our research we obtained copies of Army Topographical Maps which had been printed from data collected in 1942; some wartime sketch maps from the Australian War Memorial; a portable Global Positioning System (GPS); and as much information as we could glean from the books we had read.

According to the readings we took from our GPS, the battlesite was located approximately one hour’s trekking time south of the where the village of Isurava is located today. We then advised the local clan leader, Mr Ivan Nitua, of our plan to bring the veterans back for a last parade and requested that he organise his people to clear the site and set up some shelters.

Inspector John Rennie an Australian Federal Officer on secondment to PNG, then led a party to explore the battlesite. They did a remarkable job in identifying all the positions occupied by the 39th Militia and 2/14th AIF Battalions during the battle for Isurava. The selection of this ground as the main defensive position to stop the Japanese advance is testimony to the tactical brilliance of the Commanding Officer of the 39th – Lieutenant Colonel Ralph Honner. (more…)

After more than 60 years years the gallant 39th Battalion has been placed back on the Australian Order of Battle. Nobody has ever been able to adequately explain why the 39th was ever removed from the Order of Battle at the end of the WW11.

It could well have been because army headquarters did not realise the significance of their actions at Kokoda and Isurava because of the censorship exercised through General Macarthur’s headquarters at the time.

One who was well aware of their achievements is the Governor General, H.E. Major General Michael Jeffrey AC MC. After a meeting with the President of the 39th Battalion Association, ‘Kanga’ Moore’ the Governor General had a ‘word’ with the army Chief of the General Staff, General Peter Leahy, and on 8th August 2006 the 39th Combat Support Battalion was formed at a parade at the Shrine of Remembrance in Melbourne.

The 39th Battalion is the only army unit to have the word ‘Kokoda’ emblazoned on their regimental banner as they were the only unit to actually fight on the Kokoda plateau.

On 21 November 2006 the 39th Combat Support Battalion held their first Regimental Dinner at the Randwick Sergeants Mess. Guests of honour for the evening were the President of the 39th Battalion Association, Lt Col Alan (Kanga) Moore, Sergeant Joe Dawson and their tireless secretary, Norm Stockdale. Kanga and Joe served together on the track at Kokoda and Isurava and the respect they have for each other - and for fellow members of their battalion - will be an inspiration for our young solders of the 39th Combat Support Battalion.

Field Marshall Sir Thomas Blamey - Australia’s most promoted, but least appreciated soldier.

The most recent diatribe against Field Marshall Sir Thomas Blamey by ‘historian’ Michael McKernan (The Strength of a Nation) is based on a false premise. In the latest attempt to besmirch the reputation of Australia’s most senior commander McKernan obviously accepts the ‘rumours’ about Blamey’s address at Koitaki as ‘fact’. Students with an interest in Blamey’s life would be better advised to read Blamey: the Commander-in-Chief by David Horner.

Students should also review the 2005 Blamey Oration delivered by Major General Gordon Maitland AO OBE RFD ED on the 54th anniversary of the death of the Field Marshal on 27 May 1951.

Professor David Horner and Major General Gordon Maitland are both ex-army and as such they both have an understanding of the culture of the military. This is reflected in the objective research evident in Horner’s biography on Blamey and Maitland’s 2005 Blamey Oration to the Royal Services Institute.

Some contemporary writers posing as ‘military historians’ have been inclined to use ‘heresay’ as the basis of their research. Maitland suggests that because Blamey was appointed by Menzies these ‘modern history commentators’ regard him as a ‘Liberal’ and have therefore decreed him to be fair game. They also understand that controversial statements dressed up as ‘research’ are more likely to attract media attention to their books. (more…)

Wouldn’t it be great if . . . during the current election campaign . . . our political leaders took time out from babykissing, glad-handling and giveaway competitions and let us know what their plans are to address the challenges of our Melanesian neighbours in our ‘arc of instability’.Wouldn’t it be great if they were to announce:. The establishment of a ‘Minister for Melanesia’ with a Department of Melanesian Affairs to focus on our relationship with the island nations in our region.

. The introduction of ‘Melanesian Studies’ into our education system at Primary, Secondary and Tertiary level to provide a deeper understanding of the range and complexities of Melanesian culture.

. The introduction of ‘Pacific Military History’ to encourage young Australians to visit the battlesites that helped forge our identity during World War 11. Build more bridges!

. A ‘Seasonal Work Plan’ that would marry up ‘wan tok’ communities with specific farming communities e.g. Koiari with the Mallee; Orokaiva with The Hunter; Sepik with the Barossa; etc. etc. Included in the plan would be a compulsory educational component and a system of saving through remittance.

. A ‘Melanesian Exchange Program’ for public servants in all portfolio areas to assist in changing the culture of poor governance in Melanesia.

. Introduction of a ‘Melanesian Kiap Scheme’ to provide an opportunity for Australian graduates to live in villages and work in selected areas in partnership with PNG graduates for periods of up to two years.

. A ‘Melanesian Peacekeeping Force’ which included provision for long term exchange programs with the Australian Defence Force.

. Acceptance of a PNG National Rugby League Team into the Australian Rugby League competition (nothing would do more to unite the various PNG ‘wan-tok’ cultures than this initiative).

Other initiatives including a Melanesian Free Trade Zone, a common Melanesian currency, etc would be developed by the Minister for Melanesia through his Department of Melanesian Affairs. (more…)