Adventure Kokoda Blog

There is no more memorable way to commemorate the sacrifice of our veterans than by linking a trek across the Kokoda Trail with the official ANZAC Dawn Service in Port Moresby.

Bomana War Cemetery is the largest in the Pacific with 3779 graves. The cemetery lies in a serene tropical garden 19 kilometres north of Port Moresby off Pilgrims’ Way. The cemetery was begun by the army in 1942 and formally dedicated by the Governor-General of Australia, Field Marshall Sir William Slim, on 19 October 1953. Those who died fighting in Papua and Bougainville are buried here.  The official ANZAC Day Service is attended by veterans and dignitaries from across the Pacific.  The Australian Defence Force provides the Catafalque Party at the Cross of Sacrifice and Papuan soldiers form a Guard of Honour. The service includes a martial band and the angelic voices of a local school choir.

The solemn silence of the pre-dawn is a time for quiet reflection on your trekking experience.  The first glint of light on the endless rows of polished marble headstones is a humbling reminder of the price of freedom and the sacrifice involved to secure it.  The candle-lit faces of more than a thousand Anzac pilgrims bow in silence as an army bugler sounds Reveille. A lone bagpiper then moves among the headstones  to the haunting tune of Flowers in the Forest which bids farewell to the dead.

Our ANZAC treks follow the original wartime trail and include authentic historical briefings at all battlesites and other significant areas. They also include a moving battlefield Dawn Service at the Isurava War Memorial and a Remembrance Service at the 21st Brigade Headquarters position on Brigade Hill.

At Bomana the Cross of Sacrifice, the Memorial to the Missing and the Stone of Remembrance are built of a particularly beautiful golden-coloured sandstone.  The graves are marked with polished marble headstones and dressed in uniform rows on sloping lawns between the Stone of Remembrance and the Cross of Sacrifice.

On a rise at the rear of the cemetery is the Port Moresby Memorial to the Missing which consists of a rotunda of cylindrical pillars enclosing a circle of square pillars with bronze panels engraved with the names of 703 Australians as well as Papua and New Guinea local forces listed as missing-in-action. The names of the battlefields on which the men died are carved on the entablature above the pillars. In the centre is a topograph with a bronze compass showing the direction of the distant New Guinea battlefields. (more…)

The recent desecration of a significant wartime site along the Kokoda Trail by the Australian Government is a blatant act of historical vandalism.

The site I refer to is an abandoned mortar position adjacent to Lake Myola about halfway across the trail. I found the position approximately 10 years ago whilst I was investigating this particular area with a local landowner. It was off the side of a remote track that was used by local hunters. It was part of an ammunition storage system that supported the mortar baseplates out on the lakebed of what is called Little Myola. The mortars would have been positioned to support the Australian hospital and logistic support bases on Big Myola.

The position comprised a large ammunition storage pit and a large quantity of mortars, M36 grenades, clips of .303 ammunition, detonators and fuses. Lying around the area were rotted army boots and a couple of rusted shovels. The ammunition was stacked in rows beside the pit and covered in moss that had gathered over the past 60 years. This gave the position a haunting appearance in what is known as the moss forest. I reported the discovery to the PNG Kokoda Track Authority but at that stage it was operated by an expatriate manager and a part-time secretary and there was little interest in the preservation of historically significant sites along the Kokoda Trail.

It was not until a public outcry over the threat to mine a large part of the trail in 2006 that the Australian Government finally took more than a token interest in the area. Unfortunately, the Howard Government miscalculated and allocated responsibility for the preservation of the Kokoda Trail to the Department of Environment, Water, Heritage and the Arts, most probably because the Heritage Division was responsible for the List of Overseas Places of Historic Significance to Australia. The status of Heritage’ has since been dropped from what is now the Department of Sustainability, Environment, Water, Population and Communities. Arts has recently been added to the Minister’s responsibilities but does not yet rate a mention in its acronym.

Since 2008 Kokoda has been used as a subterfuge for the department to pursue an environmental agenda in PNG. Its guise was to embed staff in the PNG Department of Environment and Conservation to assist PNG to develop a submission  for a World Heritage listing of the Owen Stanley Ranges including the Kokoda Trail. A joint agreement with an emphasis on global warming was signed with considerable fanfare. Terms relating to military heritage did not rate a mention. One can only speculate how ‘joint’ the agreement was in the framing process. Highly paid Canberra envirocrats with tax exempt salaries and generous allowances were dispatched to advise and assist the PNG Government to save the Kokoda Trail. For most of those involved, it was their first trip to PNG and the trail quickly became a lucrative honey-pot for a coterie of anointed consultants. They came; saw; held talk-fests; produced five-point plans; and left with a wallet full of booty. (more…)

The jungles of Papua New Guinea can be a dark and foreboding place for the unwary. During the Kokoda campaign darkness came swiftly as the overhead canopy didn’t allow any form of twilight to penetrate below. Fires were forbidden because the glow of embers and the smell of dank smoke could betray a position to the enemy.

Before the transition to darkness each day soldiers would lie still during ‘stand-to’ in shallow pits lest the enemy used the cover to launch a surprise attack.  The silence in such an environment is deafening – until battalions of 6 o’clock crickets pierce the air with shrill buzzing calls lasting for up to half-an-hour.  For the first-timer in the jungle it is an unnerving sound but soon becomes part of the normal cycle of activity as they acquaint themselves with the sounds of nature.

Speak to any veteran of the Templeton’s Crossing campaign and they will quickly ask if the 6 o’clock crickets are still around. They are – but their status is under challenge from a new creature, the ‘chanting bogan’. (more…)

The Kokoda Trail provides the setting for one of the most awesome physical and emotional challenges available. The Kokoda campaign provides abundant examples of Australian leadership and team esprit-de-corps. The Koiari and Orokaiva people (of ‘fuzzy-wuzzy’ angel fame) provide the opportunity for humble, personal reflection.

Our corporate treks expose young managers to the environment where examples of Australian leadership and teamwork are the stuff of legend. We tailor each one to meet the needs of endividual trek groups.

Some may want to use the physical challenge of Kokoda to get to know each other better and improve their team esprit de corps. Others may wish to draw upon the lessons to be learned from our battlefield leadership during the Kokoda campaign – and there are lessons aplenty at all levels in this regard.

Participants learn about themselves in a way that is only possible when they are tested to their limits in a challenging and unfamiliar environment – and they learn more about their colleagues than they would after a lifetime association within their normal corporate environment.

Team bonds established last well beyond the memory of the hardships shared during the program. Witness Australian Diggers who sometimes only knew each other for a short time on the Kokoda Trail in 1942 – but who meet annually ever since to commemorate that experience.

Our leaders are well qualified for these treks because of their practical experience in command leadership.

Commodore Simon Hart was Captain of two of our frontline battleships (HMAS Brisbane and HMAS Hobart) during his distinguished career in the Royal Australian Navy.  Both ships were awarded ‘ship of the year’ under his command and he was awarded the Conspicuous Service Cross for his outstanding leadership.

Major Chad Sherrin was decorated for his combat leadership as a Sergeant during the Vietnam War.

Lieutenant-Colonel Rowan Tracey commanded a unit of 1000 men during his tour of duty in Papua New Guinea – he is regarded as Australia’s most authoritative historian on the Kokoda campaign.

Major Charlie Lynn is a Vietnam Veteran, graduate of the Army Command and Staff College and instructor in outback survival.
(more…)

If you intend to carry your own backpack across the Kokoda Trail you will need to be in top physical condition. The terrain is rugged and remote, the humidity is high and some of the mountain ranges could be classified as razorback.

In the past many trekkers wanted to do it ‘as the diggers did it’.  They were therefore advised they would not need a tent, a sleeping bag, spare clothes, toiletries or food.  They would also have to go to a disposal store and buy some hard leather hob-nailed boots.

Some persisted and made an unrealistic attempt to carry their own backpack regardless. Unfortunately we then had to try and recruit local villagers to help them complete their journey. This placed an unfair burden on the guides and carriers we had recruited as they then had to share their food and shelter as there was no prospect of a resupply.

The trek itself is hard enough without the unnecessary burden of an extra 12-15 kg.

For those who engage a Personal Carrier we recommend they purchase a small daypack – between 10 and 35 litres – to carry your water and snacks.

It is wise to do some research to ensure you get one that meets your needs for the trek – and for years to come.  Please don’t borrow or bring a cheapy – it might not last the distance and it will certainly not fit well. If it doesn’t fit properly you will curse your decision from about day 2.

It should have a good suspension system, a hydration sleeve, an outside pocket and a rain-cover.

Some of the links below will assist in your research: (more…)

A hydration bladder is a sealed plastic bag connected to a rubber hose to be used as a system for drinking water during when trekking, cycling, endurance running, etc. The size and features of the hydration bladder will vary according to manufacturer – the most common range 1.5 to 3.0 litres. Bladders are designed to fit inside a specially designed backpack with a hole to allow the hose to run from the inside of the back to the outside for easy access. The end of the hose will feature a bite valve that will prevent water from leaking out when not in use. Some of the latest developments include hydration packs that have pressurized hydration bladders which will force water through an in-line-filter allowing the user access to clean water on-the-go.

Hydration bladders are a much more effective aid in avoiding dehydration because of ease of use. All you have to do to have drink on the move is put the bite valve, which hangs beside your cheek, into your mouth and suck on it. Waterbottles placed in a pocket of your backpack or hanging from a clip can be a bit more fiddly to use and therefore some prefer to wait for a restbreak before they have a good swig from them. This is not a good approach to avoiding the perils of dehydration in a hot, humid, tropical environment.

Quality and convenience are two of the most important factors in choosing a hydration bladder. If the bite valve just fits on the tube there is a chance it could slip off – if you don’t have a spare valve (and companies like Camelback charge like a wounded bull for spares) then you are beggared.

I have used most of the brands over the years and I believe the Osprey is the best – by a long shot. It has a rigid spine which helps maintain its shape and prevent the reservoir from folding on top of itself, and the AquaGuard anti-microbial formula makes sure you don’t taste anything but pure, clean water. It has 180 degree on/off pivot bite valve with magnet which clips onto the strap of an Osprey pack for convenience.

Following are some useful links to allow you to do your own research:

Hydration Systems

Review: Camelback Vs Osprey

Video: How to choose a hydratiion system

Video: Hiking 101: Hydrations Systems

Osprey Hydration Bladder

Camelback

Platypus

Preventing mould in a hydration system

Please let us know your preferences.

The best way to plan your backpack load is to lay out all of your gear to get it organized. This is a great way to make sure you have everything you need and organize it by weight.

It is then a good idea is to cluster similar small items, such as eating utensils, toiletries, 1^st Aid items, clothing, sleeping gear, etc and pack them in zip lock or stuff bags. I use different coloured bags for these items.

I pack the things I am likely to need during the day in the zipper compartment on the top of my pack i.e. head-torch, mosquito repellent, snacks, spare torch batteries and lighter.

I pack my cup, eating utensils and a small chamois in the side compartments.

When loading my pack I obviously place the gear I do not need during the day at the bottom of the pack i.e. sleeping bag (which is packed in a waterproof stuff-sack); sleeping gear and clothing.  I then pack my 1^st Aid Kit, rain jacket, plastic plates and toiletries at the top of the pack for easy access during the day.  As a guide you should place your items so that 80 percent of the weight is sitting on your hips.

If you have a foam or therm-a-rest sleeping mat you can strap this to the outside of your backpack – if the ground is wet when you take a break you can easily unstrap it and use it as a mat.  I also hang my sandals on the outside of my pack for easy access for creek crossings.

After your bag is packed, tighten all compression straps to limit load-shifting while trekking.

Click here to watch a vidio on how to pack your backpack

A high standard of personal hygiene is essential to avoid discomfort and disease when trekking in the jungles of Papua New Guinea.

The tropics are unforgiving on those who are slack in this regard. Microscopic There are no large predators high up in the Owen Stanley Ranges but there are billions of microscopic bugs that will cause just as much grief if they are enter the system via a crack in the skin, a dirty hand or food that has not been prepared hygienically.  In some cases the bugs don’t even need a crack in the skin. For example if you walk around in bare feet and inadvertently tread in some dried dogs poo you could contract strongylides – if you haven’t heard of this condition please click here.

You just can’t be too careful in this regard.

The best way to stay healthy is to follow these guidelines:

• Keep a clean set of underwear and clothes to change into after you have showered or bathed at the end of each day’s trekking.
• Wash the clothes you have trekked in when you shower/bathe at the end of each day – you will be able to dry these over the fire in the drying hut at each campsite.
• Carry a small bottle of hand-sanitizer in your pocket (you will need to bring about four of these) – apply it to your hands before you eat anything or rub your eyes.
• Keep a small bottle of hand-sanitizer in a waterproof zip-lock bag with your toilet roll.
• After you shower/bathe at the end of each day apply hand-sanitizer to your feet to kill any bacteria.
• Wash your socks and the inner of your boot with anti-fungal soap each day.
• Use water-sterilization tablets in your water bottle.
• DO NOT walk anywhere at any time in bare feet – ALWAYS, wear camp slippers or sandals. I use camp slippers as socks to sleep in so if I need a pit-stop at night I don’t have to fish around in the dark for my sandals.

Click here to see how Cindy converts her camel-back into a portable shower.

The Battle Honour ‘ Kokoda Trail’ was awarded for participation in operations in Papua along the path that ran between Ower’s Corner, outside of Port Moresby, and the village of Wairopi, on the west bank of the Kumusi River during the period 22 July 1942 – 13 November 1942. This path was known as both the Kokoda Trail and the Kokoda Track and the former was adopted by the Battles Nomenclature Committee as the official British Commonwealth battle honour in October 1957. The honour encompasses both the retreat from the north coast of Papua to Imita Ridge (July-September), and the advance from Imitia Ridge back to Wairopi (September-November). Subsidiary honours were awarded for seven separate engagements.

Reference: Australian War Memorial http://www.awm.gov.au/units/event_247.asp

Following are some extracts from letters and reports we have received from our trekkers over the past year:

Nicole McCranor (and son Connor):
Hello Charlie,

 I think if I was honest – my son, probably took the most away from this trip.

 Part of that is of course your influence – but I cannot thank the people on the trek enough for their support, encouragement and patience.  What a good bunch of role models for him!  He hasn’t stopped talking about it – and most importantly, he has actually said he wants to do it again. 

 The services at Isurava and the War Cemetery were particularly powerful – and I don’t think you can improve on that even if you wanted to. It was perfect.

 I will certainly complete the surveys and send them back through to you both – but essentially, we signed up for the experience – the good, the bad and the ugly – and the good certainly outweighed any of the bad or the ugly!  The bad and ugly bits were character building and didn’t hurt us one bit!!

The whole experience was humbling and provided us a lesson in humility and respect … and helped put a lot of things into proper perspective …. You can’t put a price on that!

 The entire experience was ‘priceless’ and I daresay life changing (in some way) for every single person who was on that trek – whether they care to admit it or not!

 I hope any ‘suggestions’ you receive are positive ones – and know that we wouldn’t actually change any aspect of the trek. We went for the challenge and to show our respect and to learn more – we were certainly challenged, we received an amazing lesson in respect and we have learned so much more than I ever expected ….

Connor has asked everyone who asks him about the trek “Do you know what Bruce Kingsbury did?..Well he …” – you can’t buy that type of PR !!!!!  Connor is very effectively spreading the Bruce Kingsbury legend !!!    Very cool !!       

 Thank you again – an experience of a lifetime!!!  

Paula Heenan:
Thanks for an amazing 12 days Charlie. It provided everything I was hoping for and much more. The group was entertaining and fun, you were brilliant and informative, the boys were helpful and supportive, the hills and river crossings were a challenge and I loved every minute of it.

Have to say I’m enjoying my week in Noosa this week too!

I’ll be telling anyone who listens that Adventure Kokoda is the company to go with. I love that you are putting money and resources into the local community, that you’re working with the people to build and improve their lives and that you’re doing your bit to get our government to do some of the things they should have done years ago to assist the people of PNG and recognise the amazing efforts of our diggers (more…)